Page 12 - 1993 AMA Summer

Mike Smith starting Sudwestwand VI, Nonne.
the jammed knots were most definitely a bit ‘tongue in cheek'. We both lead a couple of routes each then put a top rope up on
A small corner of Pfaffenstein.
holdless arete. This leads to the next stance. In the 35m of climbing there was one ring bolt and a jammed knot. This climb saved its difficulties for the last two pitches which although short
proved quite hairy due to the marginal protection. Rope drag was also a problem which was caused by the extremely rough nature of the rock. At the top of the route we were mobbed by camera pointing, awe­ struck, sensible-shoe-clad tourists. The route had taken us about three hours. We quickly rushed past the crowds and down the steps to the start o f another route.
By now it was quite hot, and with the sun on our backs we polished off another two routes in much quicker style. Most of the climbers here climbed in three’s, didn't go to the top of the cliff, and abseiled off from about 45-50m up. All the locals we spoke to were very friendly and quite happy to give advice on the routes
and cliffs in the area.
Sadly it was soon time to pack the gear and head for home. The
next trip to Elbesandstein will definitely be longer. The climbing is brilliant as long as you can put up with the many rules and committing nature of the routes. Real adventure climbing!
Nonne's test piece. This was totally different in character to the rest of the cliff. Although fun to top rope, a lead would have been very serious as failure to clip any of the three bolts would have meant a fatal ground fall.
an excitingly overhanging wall
Day two was spent at
Lillienstein. Although another
massive tower, climbing only
appears to be on part of the
cliff. It was a picture in the
guide book that had lead us to
this cliff, so we decided to
start with the route in the
picture. The route was
W estkante. The start was a
long but easy traverse
following a large natural fault
line. As the ground at the base
of the cliff slopes away exposure and remoteness increase and the break leads, in two pitches, to a spectacular hanging belay 40m above the ground. Fortunately this was on two large ring bolts. The next pitch launches off from the stance to a steep wall, after only a few feet this eases off and is followed by a fantastic
12 Army Mountaineer
East G UIAA
I I I 111 V llb VI
UK
3 c 5a
Lillienstein
FACT FILE
Directions
From North o f Corps area
A2 To Magdeburg, B71 To Halle, A14 To Dresden. B172 To Konigstein.
From South o f Corps area
A44 To Kassel, A7 To Kirchheimer Dreieck, A4 To Dresden, B172 To Konigstein. FUEL
Dresden Nord. Southbound on B170. BP & ESSO. Both take coupons. GUIDE BOOK
SÄCHSISCHE SWEIZ (BAND 1-8)
Kletter Fiirer Sport Verlag ISBN 3/328/0041/1-8.
CAMPSITE
Various but 'Campingplatze Ostrauer Miihle' in Bad Schandau highly recommended. GEAR
Ropes. 11 mm or Double 9mm for harder routes.
Slings. Narrow tape for threads. Heavy duty for spikes.
Knotted slings. Various sizes from 5mm to 11mm.
GRADE COMPARISON