Page 29 - 1993 AMA Summer

By CpI Paul Duke R.Sigs
Summer or winter in Coire an Lochaine is a real gem. Situated in the northern Cairngorms, is the most westerly of the famous climbing grounds of the Northern Coires. The impressive granite cliffs rise 600 ft. above the coir floor to level out onto the Cairngorm plateau at around 400ft. The coire sports some superb winter climbing, however, summertime can offer some comparable challenges.
Savage Slit, severe, is a classic line on Number 4 Buttress, the most westerly of the four huge buttress that form this all-season climbing playground. The most convenient approach is from the day lodge car park, follow the track heading west and swing south into the coire heading for the great slab. This slab is a notorious avalanche prone area, especially in the spring, so bear right o f the slab and you will see, circa 1100 metres, the conspicuous open book comer that boasts Savage Slit.
To give some background to my article 1shall set the scene. Two weeks leave at home in Scotland, an old climbing partner coming to stay, all we needed was the weather. Scotland in September is usually fairly settled, well somebody should have told the weather that. As Rob Sear and I walked up into the Coire n Lochain we felt a distinct chill in the air. Snow had fallen overnight on Braeriach, but this didn’t worry us as we knew it would melt in the plus 4 temperature forecast. The BBC had told us porkies again, the temperature remained about zero all day.
The first 60 feet of the route is fairly easy scrambling from where you can find a bomber relay and get on the route proper.We put both sacks into one and Rob led off up the first
pitch, the climbing was probably no harder than 4A, but with these temperatures and the relative dampness this route was not going to be an easy touch. Belay stances are at fairly regular intervals and Rob had gone on a good 80 feet before he bought me up. Something of a struggle had ensued, with two rucksacks, frozen fingers, and harder than expected climbing. 1finally arrived at the stance blatantly out of breath. Taking great pleasure in dumping the large sack and in feeling the dubious pleasure of hot aches. I led off on the second pitch. With a couple of committing moves and spaced protection, things were going just about OK, but not for long. The wind suddenly whipped up and the cloud had great pleasure in dumping heavy snow/hail straight on top of us. With this 1managed to get a bit of gear in and and tied myself off. The snow was so bad Rob couldn't see me below so we decided on an impromptu NAAFI break. Within the quarter hour the snow had subsided and 1 got on with the job in hand. Finally finishing my pitch 1bought a now shivering Rob up to the ledge. He led through positively running up the last semi-bridging/ padding moves. Bringing me up the route had taken us nearly three hours, but was well worth the views to Braeriach and Glen Einich. An easy walk off the the western flank of Cairn Lochain brings you quickly down to the path.
In summary Savage Slit is well worthy of inclusion in Classic Rock and is a must for all of you that are into long walk-ins and the big mountain feel to your rock climbing. However, one small tip, choose a nice hot sunny day in July and don't be put off by the walk-in, these routes really are worth it.
SAVAGE SLIT
Army Mountaineer 29