Page 21 - 1994 AMA Winter

VIKINGS ON THE MATTERHORN
n July this year 11 members of The Vikings took part in Exercise Hornli Viking to the challenging environment of the Swiss Alps. The aim of the expedition was to introduce novice mountaineers
to the excitement of Alpine mountaineering and to climb the Matter­ horn. probably the most spectacular peak in the Alps.
Planning for the expedition began in February and a sponsorship appeal to local East Anglian companies produced some financial backing, and an enormous box of mustards and sauce mixes from Colmans of Norwich. This contribution was gratefully received and led to some culinary wonders during the expedition. The team was selected mainly from Support Company with Captain Nick Nottingham and Cpl Kev Carpenter from the training wing joining Captain Henry Simpson as the instructors. None of the team had climbed a major Alpine peak before and the expedition set off from Colchester with a real sense of adventure.
The team travelled by minibus down through France and up into the Swiss Alps where base camp was established in Zermatt. Our orange Force 10 tents stood out distinctively amongst the dome tents of a multi-national brigade of climbers and we soon became quite a tourist attraction. Cpl Ian Cox, the base camp manager, was quick to launch into heroic tales of our climbing feats whenever the opportu­ nity arose.
------- by Capt Henry>Simpson ----------- Preparations for the attempt on the Matterhorn were now complete
and a team of five was selected to attempt the summit. The next day the team walked up to the Hornli hut at the base of the Hornli ridge,
I
The Team on the Uohnlallingral (3286)
(M atterhorn in background)
The first three days were spent teaching basic rock climbing and abseiling skills to the novices, and on altitude acclimatization treks up into the surrounding mountains. The weather was perfect with glori­ ous views of the great rock pyramid that is the Matterhorn. On our forth day in Zermatt the team took the famous Gornergrat train up through the mountain side to the snow covered ridges above to prac­ tice snow and ice safety techniques. The hordes of Japanese tourists looked at us in amazement as one by one we threw ourselves off the ridge to practice ice axe breaking and rescue techniques.
At Solvay Hut (4000tn) L to R Cpl Carpenter, Capt Nottingham Pte Smith, Cpl Watson.
our start point for the real climb. After a sleepless night in the hut dormitory we set off in darkness at 0420 hrs to begin the climb. Several other groups parted at the same time creating a thin snake of torches flickering up the mountain side. Fortunately, there was also a full moon and the team made good progress up the ridge. It was not until daylight that the full enormity of what we were attempting became clear. On our left the snow covered east face dropped steeply down to a glacier 1000 m below, and on our right the almost sheer north wall rose up the summit 1000 m above. The route varied from steep scrambles to snow travers­ es and was some times difficult to follow. Accidental variations tended to be loose, steep and very unpleasant.
The team, roped up for safety, worked well but our cautious approach meant the going was often slow. With the sun beating down, the snow quickly began to melt and water could be heard cascading down under the snow fields. Stone falls and small avalanches also became more frequent although many were caused by climbers above. By the time the team reached the Solvay hut just 400 m short of the summit some climbers were already returning from the shoulder above having failed to reach the summit. They warned of treacherous snow conditions and with time pressing we reluctantly decided to descend. It took us ten hours to abseil and climb back down to the hut where the rest of the team were anxiously waiting. Earlier a helicopter had res­ cued a climber who had fallen from the ridge and they had no way of knowing if it had been one of us. Of the forty or more climbers who attempted the ridge that day only five made it to the summit.
Despite not reaching the top all the team felt a great sense of achievement and we left Switzerland with a greatly improved confidence in our abilities. It is hoped the Vikings will return to the area again next year and all the unsuccessful summit team have already volunteered. Watch this space.
Army Mountaineer 19