Page 71 - KRH Regimental Journal 2022

The Regimental Journal of The King’s Royal Hussars 69
of the team to an upset stomach, but at least this time it was only temporary.
After donning our High Altitude boots we made slow progress across the last of the moraines to the start of the snow ramp. However the ramp we were planning to follow held a surprise for us! After a section of good snow to access the ramp, it turned out to be completely clear of snow, which, if we had been in approach shoes, would have made for an easy ascent. However the heavy, triple layered HA boots (each weighing c.1kg) proved to be as effective as waking in diving boots.
As we got higher, the team struggled with the weight, the boots and the altitude. At approx 5850m and with the steep fixed lines ahead of us, our chief instructor called a halt to the days effort, fearing that the team might empty the tank before we even got to the higher slopes. We stashed out loads under the rocks at the affectionally known ‘Purgatory Point’ and made a slow descent back to Camp 1.
The next morning and after the physicality of the previous days load carrying to 5850m, we made the decision to have a rest day. This would allow the team to sort their bags for the big pull up to Camp 2, take in as much hydration as possible (as demonstrated by our remarkable tea guru, Roy), eat and enjoy the sun. Not for- getting the all important beard trimming.
A small group descend back to Base Camp to collect some bits and pieces that people have forgot and take advantage of some excellent noodles rustled up on the spot by Chef. Without full loads the walk down and back is ‘pleasant’...a rarity over the last couple of weeks.
However, everyone’s thoughts are on tomorrow, the full climb to Camp 2 and the first time on fixed ropes for the majority of team.
The ‘big’ move to Camp 2 began with an early start allowed us to cross the frozen moraines and the first snow apron in good time before starting the grind of Red Flag Hill and then the access ramp to the fixed ropes at 5900m.
Unfortunately one of team, who had been suffering from an upset stomach for a few days, started to move very slowly and struggled with the very heavy loads we were carrying. With the bulk of the days climbing above us, it was decided amongst the Expedition leadership team that the team member should descend back to Camp 1. Very sad that we would lose another team member but ultimately the right decision for both the individual and the team. Now we were 9.
A well deserved wash in a glacial river after a long day trekking
The Chief Instructor Glenn drew the short straw, and escorted the team member back down to the snow apron, across it and back onto the ‘safe’ moraines, where Roy (ascending from Camp 1) met him and escorted him to Camp 1.
On arrival at Purgatory Point, we discovered that Himalayan Chuffs, had taken a liking to Army Ration packs and had pecked, eat and destroyed vast sums of our rations! We took stock and with the previous loss of climbers and if we were carful we still had just enough food to continue the summit attempt.
By this time the sun was well on us and the snow had started to soften, making the going very hot and hard as we ascended the fixed lines to Camp 2.
We finally pulled into Camp 2 in the early afternoon and set about getting as much fluids and food into us as we could. As we did the team took great delight that at somepoint during the day my suncream had exploded in my rucksack, covering a great deal of his kit in factor 50!
After a very clear but cold night, the team; now split into two Rope Teams and began towards Camp 3 (6500m) as part of our acclimatisation profile and to load carry our final set of rations in preparation for summit day.
Rope Team One set off first in pretty much perfect conditions, firm snow underfoot, clear skies and not a breath of wind. They quickly (but breathlessly) made it to 6300m and the start of the next set of fixed lines. At the base was a tent that the Sherpas had put in the day before. After a little confused chatter (language bar- riers) it became apparent that the Sherpas didn’t feel that Camp 3 was in the right location due to avalanche fears. It later transpired that the intended site of Camp 3, whilst on good snow, was actu- ally on a huge sheet of blue ice. Ultimately, we pay the Sherpas for
Capt Turner deep in thought on an acclimatisation hike before moving to Base Camp