Page 21 - 1995 AMA Autumn

by Maj Davies
T he success of Hot Rock ‘94 meant Hot Rock ‘95 had a lot to live up to. This, now to be annual, March meet takes place somewhere hot and dry, ie not Britain. This year was a
return to Costa Blanca, albeit only for a week.
1 he mixture of bolted, single pitch sports routes, longer, semi pro­ tected multipitch routes and remote mountain routes offers some­ thing for everybody, although due to the dispersed nature of the climbing, all personnel must be competent multipitch climbers.
The rock is limestone and varies from getting towards polished in the popular Sella area to so untouched at Gandia it is sharp enough to shred your stickies.
The 15 Army and RAF team members made good use of the time available, climbing like demons and notching up some good routes, unlike the expedition leader who wimped out after 3 days by falling and breaking her leg. However, leaderlike duties were continued from the side of the swimming pool by the apartment building, so the show went on.
The areas used and routes climbed included:
Penon de Ifach - The mini rock of Gibraltar 10 minutes walk from the apartment offers a variety of superb semi-protected multi-pitch routes:
Via Valencianos - S - 820ft
Diedro UPSA - HVS - 5a - 890ft
Via Gomez-Cano - E2 Ai - 5c - 1110ft
Sapper Dave Franklin pulls up on a 'small' hand hold.
Barranco del Mascarat - Steepwalled gorges rising above a winding road with various tunnels and bridges provide a unique atmos­ phere to these climbs. This can be noisy at times, especially if the bridge jumpers are out in any numbers.
Via Sulfada - El - 5b - 730ft Via UPSA - HVS - 790ft
Toix West and South - These escarpments on the edge of Calpe offer a mixture of cragging and sea cliffclimbing, mainly well pro­ tected.
The Green Route - E2 - 150ft El Dorado I - E2 - 5b - 280 ft.
Puig Campana - This mountain, whose impressive profile is clear­ ly visible from the coast road, is definitely worth the walk in.
Espero Sur Central - S -1200ft
Sports climbing was carried out at Sella, a popular valley area with numerous single pitch routes and forays were made further afield to explore the lesser known areas of Sax and Gandia. Both the lat­ ter comprise of 1 to 2 pitch bolted routes on excellent rock, but are little, and at times, coniilsingly documented.
All in all, a good time was had by all. Next years meet will be run by Lt Richard Baker, location to be confirmed; probably France. What is confirmed, however is the popularity of this meet. If you wish to attend, get your application off as soon as the forms become available. He who hesitates is lost, in this, as in many other things. There can be no better way of limbering up for the summer season than by exposing those ghostly pale bodies that have been crawling up climbing walls for months to a bit of sun­ shine and warmth, long before such items become available this side of the water.
Sun, sea, and Rock, at Toix South.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Hot Rock 9 5
Alias Exercise Tartan Chameleon
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