Page 17 - 2009 AMA Summer

On the summit of Stob a’ Coire Easain.
stayed at home. As I veered left and right to avoid the downhill run, I tried to fathom why anyone would hurtle down there at break- neck speed risking life and limb. My bewilderment was further exacerbated as I continued uphill to see padding strapped to rocks and trees! I imagine that they probably say something simi- lar about mountaineers!! Emerging from the trees I left the familiar sight of the gondola behind and headed over to the Allt Daim and followed it upstream. The dreary gloom worsened, now bringing persistent showers that would dominate the rest of the day. Progress was slow gaining the saddle between Carn Mor Dearg and Aonach Mor; the wet sodden ground beside the river bringing additional challenge. I tried to identify the grade 2 scramble record- ed in Trail Magazine on the way up but to no avail and so I contin- ued on, looking forward to resting on the saddle and taking a moment to enjoy the view; the outline of the ridges that surround- ed me. This saddle links the Aonachs Mor and Beag with Carn Mor Dearg and Ben Nevis and makes it possible to walk these 4 Munros in a single outing.
With the assistance of the occasional knee I went on to reach the mid-ground between the 2 Aonachs before deploying map and compass in pitiful visibility to find the ridgeline track that would take me to the summit of Aonach Beag. It was here that I met my first mountain companions after they traversed the Grey Corries to join me on this 4000 footer. After swapping stories and advice I turned
View on route to Beinn a’ Chaorainn; Loch Treig, Stob a’ Choire Mheadhoin (left) & Stob Coire Easain (right)
back and descended Aonach Beag to continue the simple journey to Aonach Mor. It was here that I was finally rewarded with a break in the weather; it was wonderful! To be able to view the magnifi- cence of the Highlands from this platform is a privilege that is reserved for the few who make the effort to attain it. Most who gain lofty heights here are tourists struggling the great distances from the car park to the Ski Centre and then riding the gondola up the mountainside. Although I would not condemn anyone to choosing this option, there is just no comparable alternative to summiting on foot, with lungs fit to burst and a smile that only hill walkers and the insane possess. With camera smouldering from quick-fire snap- ping I turned my attention to the mountain restaurant on the decent, (where many passing pleasantries were exchanged with those sane tourists who I have only just chastised). From hear you can follow the track down or hand hand-rail the gondola cable and fight your way through the scrub for the amusement of those hanging above!
Stirring in the twilight hours I wondered what the next day had to offer. Would it be another rain incessant ordeal? Would the weath- er against all the odds show a stark improvement? Or, more like- ly, was high winds and thick cloud going be make summiting unattainable? All I knew as I laid under my canvas refuge drifting into sleep was that no matter what the Highlands threw at me, that I would meet it head on. Thankfully, the need to prove my man- hood did not transpire and as I set off from Loch Laggan in weath- er that defied all predictions and I cautiously looked forward to a dry and sunny day.
A steady pace over fairly uniform gradients soon delivered me on the summit of Beinn Tealach. This low-ranking Munro standing at 915m was visited with a little something to spare. With fine views back towards Loch Treig and the summits of day one, I was sim- ply happy to sit in the company of Glen Spean nibbling my lunch as the world passed me by. The energy reserve that was main- tained during the earlier ascent was to prove very beneficial as the easy descent was then balanced against a steep and quick climb up neighbouring and slightly more impressive 1052m Beinn a’ Chaorainn. There was no reserve to rely upon from this point forth; the culmination of these first 3 days was fatigue mixed with jubila- tion and the knowledge that the 6hr drive from Catterick had been well worth the effort. As I strode down the steep hillside at an ever increasing pace I looked forward to a hearty meal and the rest day that would follow. The Grog and Gruel in Fort William has a varied menu and good ales and proved to be a great venue to replenish energy levels in preparation for days yet to come.