Page 25 - 2009 AMA Summer

TALES OF HIGH ADVENTURE
THE BRITISH SERVICES’ MAKALU EXPEDITION ’08
Makalu is without doubt one of the most beautiful and challenging mountains on Earth. It is also, at 8463m, the fifth highest mountain in the World. In the fifty-four years since it was first climbed, it has had less than 250 ascents and has taken over 22 lives. An ascent, by any route, is a real chal- lenge and the perfect objective for a tri-Service expedition.
The joint services mounts an expedition of this nature every four years and as 2008 was the 50th anniversary year we decided to go big; we picked multiple objectives and gave over 40 people the opportunity to tackle them. The objectives were:
a. Main Team – Makalu via the Makalu La and the North East Ridge.
b. SE Ridge Team – SE Ridge of Makalu, descent via the Main Team route on the North.
c. High Altitude Development Team – Pethangtse and Island Peak.
d. Junior Team – Mera Peak
The Makalu La And The North East Ridge
by Matt Hing
Matt Hing, the 6th Briton to reach the however, are slow to come. Even a small, constant coughing and vomiting helped
summit and the 8th Brit overall.
Matt summitted on 18 May 2008. This article is based on a blog entry dated 21 May 08, the day after he returned to base camp.
The last seven days have been the tough- est emotional and physical days I have ever had. This may appear overly dramatic, but is the reality of high-altitude mountaineer- ing. Everything else I have done before has now paled into insignificance. So what to make of it? Why do it? Why should the public purse contribute towards it?
There are so many questions running through my head at the moment. There is, after all, a lot of time to think on the mountain. The answers,
You know that you are high-up – Lhotse (left) and Everest fourteen miles away to the West
medicinal, bottle of whisky has failed to start the flow. Maybe I need to increase the dose?
Perspective and time should, I hope, pro- vide the answers to my questions. In the meantime I will try, in my own way, to give a narrative of the last few days.
The first three days were pretty uneventful. The move to Camp 1 was an easy walk as we were acclimatised and it was a happy, if apprehensive, group that gathered there. The Sherpas followed later and met us at Camp 3. The next day we moved up the fixed ropes to Camp 2.
That night Matt S was on poor form. A mix-
ture of
him to conclusion that he was in no shape to attempt the summit and he went down; the right decision.
The rest of us moved up to Camp 3 which involves gaining 800m. Most of this is on fixed rope over difficult ground. This is physically demanding and a little nerve- wracking. At the top of the ropes is the wind funnel of the Makalu La, it did not dis- appoint. It was the coldest I had ever been and we scrambled for the tents at Camp 3 to warm up. Eating at 7400m is a trial. Calorie intake is reduced to energy drinks,
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 23