Page 29 - 2010 AMA Spring
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accidentally struck his head. With the risk of concussion, potential altitude sickness and the nearest Doctor being in Gangtok (up to three days travel away) he was soon whisked back down the moun- tain to receive medical attention. Indeed, the lack of medical exper- tise in the event of an accident was a concern. Nevertheless, we did have alternative therapies in the form of our expedition ‘Witch Doctor’, Capt Dawn Hyland. The cry of "Anyone for a drop of gingko?" (good for altitude sickness apparently) and a spot of heal- ing reiki, were soon being employed for all sorts of pains and ills!
It is above 3,000m that the risk of developing Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) can occur. With mild symptoms including breath- lessness, a racing heartbeat and a headache, it affected us all to varying degrees with some more affected than others. It is for this reason that ascent over and above this height must be gradual and structured. Thus over the next few days of the expedition, the ascent was more gradual in order to allow our bodies to acclima- tise to the thinning air.
Our accommodation and food during the trek was generally basic but sufficient. Sleeping in tents and eating mainly vegetarian food, our diet was supplemented on the third night by a freshly slaugh- tered lamb. Dispatched by Major Elms with one swift blow to the back of it's neck with a kukri, it made an interesting addition to that night's dinner. Indeed, we were constantly amazed with the magic that our two chefs could conjure up with just one pressure stove.
The whole group were mystified as to how jelly dessert was made and a cake baked at nearly 4,000m without a fridge or oven!?
It was on day six of the trek that the ascent that we made our attempt on the summit. Setting out at 0200hrs, it was a difficult 5hr slog to the peak. Unfortunately for us, the views were shrouded in mist when we arrived there. Nevertheless, it was a great feeling to have finally reached the top and we were all delighted that two of the dogs had also decided to join us for the journey, all the way to the top! After photos, sweets and potato snacks it was time to head back. The descent was a tiring further 3hrs, followed by lunch and then another 2hrs to get us down to a lower altitude before a second day was spent walking back to Yuksom.
Once off the mountain, we were fortunate during our period of R&R to visit both Darjeeling and Agra where in the latter we visited the Taj Mahal and the Mughal Red Fort; both extremely memorable experiences.
In summary, the trek was an amazing but challenging experience. To some degree everyone was pushed out of their own individual comfort zone whether it involved the physical nature of the trek, or indeed coping with the weather or the altitude. All in all, the group's thanks go to Maj Elms and his team for organising an extremely successful and rewarding expedition.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 27