Page 45 - 2017 AMA Summer
P. 45
Black Diamond Aspect
RRP £75.00
I had a good ponder over this harness
while wearing weighty amount of kit it before committing to buying it. It is not
doesn’t dig in or slip down. The laminate the premier mountaineering harness from
technology basically repels water, snow Black Diamond, but it is more versatile (it
and ice keeping it much lighter when is also £30 cheaper). I like how this has
wet than others which absorb the liquid been designed with features that are well
and weigh it down. The leg loops are thought out. Let me explain.
adjustable making it easier to put on over layers of clothes, waterproofs or The gear loops are positioned to be used
crampons.
with a ruck sack and aren’t as far to the
rear making it perfect for Scottish winter
I have a confession to make... I have been mountaineering when you may feel
using this harness for 2 years and I have restricted by bulky layers and clothing
found it to be perfect for winter moun- and cant reach to far around yourself.
taineering, scrambling, rock climbing If I was being absolutely picky the gear
and even for messing around at indoor loops are a little small, but there is fifth
walls. It has done really well at all aspects loop across the back, which does move
but it has never seriously excelled at any some of the less immediate items out
individual discipline. Much to my delight the way to the rear. This is constructed
it is in bright vibrant colours and makes with cord rather than the usual plastic
me look much more ‘street sophisti- covered webbing to make it low profile
cated’ than I actually am and the colour for when a rucksack is sat over it.
stand out well on photographs. It is a true all-round contender happy in winter The main belt of the harness isn’t that
or in summer.
comfortable for hanging in for extended
periods of time ( I spent an uncomfort-
able 45mins being ‘rescued’ on an easy
! est in test angled slab on my RCI course). It is
B
pretty comfortable to wear though, even
Value for moneyt Weight
Fit and comfort Racking
All round abilityt)
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
A good well made harness that is a true all rounder.
Edelrid Zack Harness
While the Black Diamond was uncom- fortable to hang in this was nothing but a delight to wear. The broad padded waist loop spread my weight well across my back and didn’t feel too warm or sweaty. I have been using this harness for a few months and have found it to be one of the most comfortable out of the four reviewed.
The gear loop are solid and slightly flared out to allow an ease of clipping or removing gear. While I like the gear loops the rear ones are extremely far back and difficult to reach, especially if wearing a daysack or larger. It was really frustrating trying to reach that far around my back to get a karabiner quickly only to fumble around and waste time and energy. The gap between the front and rear gear loops on both sides are way too spaced for my liking. All of the wear points around the belay loop are robustly reinforced, which gives it a slight feeling of being indestructible.
RRP £55.00
While this harness will do what you want it to I honestly feel it isn’t an all-round harness. It does become heavy when used in the rain and did annoy me in a welsh trad scenario. It did get into its own on a recent sport climbing trip though and was out standing in warm weather clipping bolts. The harness I reach for to head to the wall is the zack, but would be left in my kit cupboard on a trad climbing weekend and I wouldn’t even consider it for winter.
Value for moneyt Weight
Fit and comfort Racking
All round abilityt)
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
★★★★★
Not perfect for all round UK conditions but would work well for sport climbers who do the odd bit of trad.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 43