Page 10 - 1998-99 AMA Winter

Alpine Mountaineering
By: Capi M ac M ackay
This article was first produced a few years ago and was well received especially by the younger members. ¿4s we are getting close to the A M A A L P S 2000 expedition, perhaps it is appropriate to repeat the article and update the text with Top Tips. Alpine routes can be climbed in many different styles, this article aims to discuss some o f the planning issues that need careful consideration prior to attempt­
ing a route.
It all started with a discussion I had in a snow bound alpine hut with Dave Farquar, who at the time was the AMA secretary. The dis­ cussion immediately brought to mind a day on the Frendo Spur, a classic mixed route at D+ in the Monte Blanc range. Norman Jones and I had left the Midi-Plan Station at about 0630 and after two hours on the route we came across two young British climbers (not AMA I might add). I asked them, when had they started climbing? “8 o’clock yesterday” they answered. Little wonder I thought, with run­ ners every 5ft and sacks that would not be out of place on the backs of Sherpas, heading for some high peak. But never the less in ‘True British Style’ they were trying to push out the route. We never saw them again that day. We were on the top by 2 o’ clock and there was no dout that our light packs had enabled us to move fast.
I’ve come across such situations many times on alpine routes, having done exactly the same myself‘in True Scottish Style’. Alpine routes are exhausting enough without spoiling the enjoyment by humping the kitchen sink along with you. Routes in alpine terrain differ con­ siderably from all rock, rock/ice/snow, ice/snow only, difficult glacier crossing and multi-day with planned bivouacs. Every route should be planned meticulasly, including what goes into the rucksack. This will hopefully prevent the often heard saying, “I’ll just throw in an extra thermal just in case”, that increases the weight to be carried and makes it seriously hard work when climbing. If you aspire to feats such as the Matterhorn in 5 hrs by one of the easier routes then one has to move fast, and to do this you must travel light. The question
I ask myself is could I survive an emergency night out with the kit
Could you survive a night out, not necessary in comfort, with what you are carrying? This is the question that could lighten or increase the size of your sack. A cold night makes sure that you don’t sleep-in and gives you that early start you definitely need! So what should you carry in an emergency bivi kit. The minimum is:
a. Bivi Bag - (Full gortex)
b. Insulation Mat - (Built into some rucksacks)
c. Down or synthetic Duvet/Gortex jacket - (down is better in the Alps)
Top Tip:
Put on everything you have in your sack: hat, gloves, long johns etc and shiver the night away nibbling your emergency rations as fuel. Drink as much as possible especially at altitude, over a long period of time, to fully rehydrate your body.
If planning to Bivouac then some extra kit can give you a good nights sleep. This gets you ready for the next days activities, but don’t forget you may have to carry it on the route unless you intend to return the same way, then it is preferable to cache the extra gear and pick it up on your return. The recommended extra items are:
a. Small stove and fuel. (Light weight Gas is very popular. ) b. Sleeping bag and/or duvet.
c. Rations.
d. Water (Ifnot available at bivi site; check it out in guidebook or
through local knowledge)
e. W alkman/radio/mobile phone (for weather report)
I’m carrying?
Top Tip:
Generally in the alpine countries local climbers do not carry sleep­ ing bags on day tours. The aim is to be back in the hut or valley by night- fall and they only carry minimum equipment for emergency purposes.
CHECK OFF LISTS
The following check off lists can be used as a guide if you feel you need one, or as food for thought for the more experienced mem­ bers:
ALPINE ROCK ROUTES
INDIVIDUAL
Climbing Sack - (50 ltr MAX)
Bivi Bag - (Full gortex)
Water Bottle
W aterproofs - (Full gortex)
Harness - (Adjustable) Thermal Top Hat/gloves - (Thermal lightweight) Helmet
2x8ft Sling
2x8ft accessory cord 5 or 6mm - (Better known as prussic loops) Belay device - (HMS Karabiner popular with Europeans)
Abseil device - (Fig of eight recommened)
Head Torch - (For early start or arriving back late, put it in!) Rations - Day and Emergency
Sun Glasses
Sun Screen -
8 Army Mountaineer
(H igh
factor)