Page 21 - 2004 AMA Summer
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group would then sleep at the lower camp prior to moving up to the next higher camp that had been stocked up the previous day, sticking to the theory of climbing high and sleeping low. Once we were at camp 4 Piedras Blancas (white rocks, 6060m) the plan was to prepare for the 6hr climb to the summit.
Whilst at base camp on the 8th March 04 it was time to eat with a small ceremony in the field with Lt Kate Hannaford being promoted to Capt, with a kind letter and bottle of Champagne courtesy of the Commanding Officer. The alcohol quickly went to our heads enabling us to drift off into a peaceful night of sleep.
As progress was made up the mountain from base camp to camp Canada, Canada to Nido, Nido to Berlin and finally up to Piedras Blancas, everyone found that the thin air and lack of oxygen was making the progress harder and harder. By this stage three members of the team Capt Kate Hannaford, CpI Julie West and CpI Cheryl McMurray had called it a day and returned to base camp. Above 5500m the body doesn’t acclimatise any more and,
unless you’re a 'Yeti’, a good night’s sleep is rare.
As summit day approached, although the winds were extremely fierce it was decided to go for it. After about 30 minutes into the summit attempt myself and Tpr John Howie (HAC) decided to turn back as we could not feel our fingers and toes. It would take John over an hour to get the feeling back in his toes, and this really scared us. At 1330hrs on 15
Feb 2004 Capt Lindsey Courage reached the summit of Aconcagua, together with a French mountain guide. With most of the group now safely back at base camp Fit Lt Bren Dunn and SSgt Mark Morgan decided to stay at Confluencia (6370m) and have another summit attempt. As we waited nervously at base camp we found out that Bren had made a successful attempt the following day. On arrival at base camp
Mark had to be treated for frostbite on all his fingers by the camp doctor, it also turned out that he had suffered from High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPE) whilst up the mountain. The group then moved down the mountain to Puente del
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Aconcagua which is no mean
feat. On a more favourable day with the weather, two or three other members could have also reached the summit; this was mainly due to the acclimatisa tion programme that worked extremely well. Some members of the group had the occasional headache each morning and this was normally treated with a few paracetamol tablets and a
litre of water.
Ex Mulas Dragon was an extremely challenging under
Inca. The walk back was further than we had remembered and took several hours, despite maintaining a rapid pace. The long winding valley seemed to go on for ever and ever!! After ‘booking out’ from the park entrance and collecting our kit from the mule company we bought a well deserved burger and beer! We all then returned back to Mendoza for the R&R phase of the expedition.
Two members of the party reached the summit of
taking, arguably the most ambitious adventurous
training exercise the Regiment has attempted in recent years. Although all the members of the expedition did not reach the summit, a 25% success rate is a commendable result. The exercise achieved the aims which had been set, but most importantly, all team members enjoyed the adventure, worked close to their own personal limits
and felt a real sense of achievement.
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