Page 11 - 2021 AMA Summer

PERIOD-ISATION
Syncing training with the menstrual cycle is never about not doing something because of your cycle or not doing anything during a certain cycle phase. It is about optimising. Our cycle should not dictate everything we do, nor should we choose training solely based on our cycle phase. There are lots of resources saying “follicular phase is the prime time for strength” and “luteal phase is the prime time for endurance”, but ultimately training should first and foremost be directed by your climbing goals and training status. Considering the menstrual cycle comes second.
When we train, we provide our tissues with a stimulus (a challenging climb or exercise). We push our bodies away from homeostasis (that balanced place it likes to be) and then during a recovery period our bodies adapt, in the hope that when we encounter the same challenge it won’t disrupt our homeostasis so much. The important take away here is that recovery is essential for adaptation. When we look to train in a structured way, we tend to build up fatigue, and then allow a recovery week, after which the adaptations are realised (referred to as supercompensa- tion). This recovery period is often called a “rest” or “deload” week, and a common ratio of training weeks to rest weeks is 3:1. This also happens to first very neatly with a 28-day menstrual cycle!
So, if thinking about your cycle alongside your training is about optimisation, it is about getting the most out of your training time and being able to “hit the stimulus” (the challenge level) for each training or climbing session. Through tracking you may find that it is harder to hit training stimulus or climb at a high intensity at certain times in your cycle. By aligning this phase with your rest week, you can make the most of your training weeks. When we become more consistent in our training, we see better results. Remember a rest week doesn’t mean doing nothing, but reducing the intensity and volume of training. If a climber has a 28-day cycle and struggles with power and bloating in the 5 days before their period, and cramps for the first 2 days, then this would be the optimal time to schedule a rest week, and a less optimal time to be trying to complete hard fingerboard training, pull ups and board climbing!
CYCLES PHASES AND TRAINING
When it comes to the menstrual cycle and sport, the research is inconsistent at best. This is simply because we are still at the stage of refining how the research is done in order to get meaningful results. However, from a blend of theory, research and anecdote we can start to pull together some approaches for each phase.
Menstruation – Manage symptoms such as cramps and use low intensity climbing or exercise to move. Try supplements such as magnesium, zinc and omega-3. Depending on symptoms this may be a good rest phase.
Follicular Phase – This may be the optimal time to focus strength and high intensity training. This doesn’t mean not doing strength training during the luteal phase but doing less to allow for recovery.
Ovulation – This has been coined the “bullet proof” time, where peak performance may feel accessible. However, this may also cause bloating and feeling sluggish for others so keep track of your experience here! There
is evidence to suggest a higher risk of certain soft tissue injuries during this time (research is focused on ACL), so stopping strong may be best if you feel a niggle or vulnerable to injury.
Luteal Phase – Ensure full recovery between high intensity sessions. This may mean more rest days or substitut- ing with some lower intensity climbing. Fuel sessions well with carbohydrates and protein to aid anaerobic exercise and recovery from training.
Premenstrual Phase – This may be a good time to rest. Work around symptoms so that you can still hit the stimulus for training sessions or use this an unstructured phase so that you are free to do what you feel in any given cycle. Remember, if your premenstrual symptoms are disruptive one cycle, they may not be as severe another cycle!
Understanding your menstrual cycle alongside your climbing can be a powerful tool for building body literacy and thinking about your training in a different way.
Week 1: Follicular
Week 2: Follicular - Ovulation
Week 3: Luteal
Week 4: Premenstrual
Focus on strength training
Focus on strength training
Reduce volume of strength training and fuel these sessions well with carbohydrates. Stay on top of protein!
Disrupted sleep and fatigue. Use easier climbing to play with movement and relaxation. Reduce total training to give plenty of rest.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 11
MADDY COPE BIOGRAPHY
Maddy Cope is an education
lead and coach at Lattice Training
Ltd, providers of the world’s first
systematic assessment and training
tool for climbing. A climber of 11
years, Maddy has some impressive
climbing achievements including
Prinzip Hoffnung in Austria (E9),
Bat Route and Mind Control (both
8c) and her dream goal of Freerider
on El Cap. Maddy enjoys working
with people who are passionate
about climbing, keen to improve,
and willing to put the energy into Yosemite by Hazel Findlay achieving their goals. She has
also contributed to Lattice Training Ltd’s Female Climber Series of blogs. For further information on this topic, and others, go to www.latticetraining.com