Page 15 - 2021 AMA Summer

EXPEDITIONNEWS
EXERCISE MUNRO TIGER SPEAR
The ascent of Cioch Nose (Sgurr a’Chaorachain, Applecross, 140m Severe)
Tarquin Shipley recounts 1 (UK) Signal Brigade’s expedition to the Scottish Highlands
“Safe – off belay – that’s me – climb when ready – climbing now – ok!” This carefully cho- reographed call sequence means that my rope-mates know that I am safeguarding the rope from my perch 40m above. We are climbing the Cioch Nose, a rock climb in the Highlands of Scotland described by the first ascensionists (C. J. S. Bonington and T. W. Patey) as the “The Diff to end all Diffs” but it now gets a more realistic grade of Severe after some crucial holds have disappeared over the years. We are on HQ 1 Signal Brigade’s unit AT, based out of Ullapool with two teams of three on the route; one led by myself and one by expedition leader Captain Marcus Levens. We make a motley crew, from an over 60-year-old Reservist all the way down to some adventurous Signalers from 30 Signal Regiment who volunteered but not really knowing what they were getting into.
It is an all-day affair climbing this route, and as we gather on a small ledge which provides an awesome view whilst we eat our sandwiches, we reflect on our progress so far. Unusually for this mountain route we park the minibus near the summit of the mountain and descend for an hour down a steep gully into the coire before traversing a narrow ledge
onto the buttress and the start of the route. We then climb steeply up the nose of the buttress. The leader places gear as they go to protect from a fall and the seconds strip the gear as they come up. We then repeat the process, but whilst the sequence is the same the climbing is often not straightforward. The leader must decide which crack to climb and which way to go. They risk climbing themselves into a dead end as they can’t rely on the guidebook description. ‘Pitch 2, 70ft (21m), up chimney (strenuous) and exit right on to easy but exposed rock leading to niche under overhang.’ Which chimney, which niche and which overhang?
As an instructor it is always confirming to see the awakening of a follower when they start becoming a leader. The doubt creeps in. The second who confidently followed now is doubtful when they must find their way up the cliff and the conse- quences of a mistake are potentially fatal.
We finish our sandwiches and step off the ledge just as a light shower passes which reduces the friction on the sandstone. Foot placements need to be more careful and progress slows. Tension rises as we solve the puzzle of the Cioch. There are odd signs you can interpret. A polished
Cosy ledge for lunch
foothold here and there or a worn patch on a ledge which indicates previous climbers have passed this way.
The angle has eased and some short rock walls between ledges take us to the summit of the Cioch. A grand place to be and we soak in the view again. Marcus’ head appears from above. He inquires whether I’m keen to push up and onto the continuation ridge or head down the gully. Up represents another 200 to 300m of alpine ascent and turns this already long route into a very challenging endeavor. He seems to want to go up as always! 25 years earlier, on another trip with 30 Signal Regiment there had only been me and LCpl Euan Emblin, and we had taken the gully down which was loose and awkward. Today with more mileage under my belt and surrounded by a team that had bonded well there was no choice to make. Up the ridge we climbed with growing confidence until we emerged onto the misty summit plateau eight hours after we had left the bus. An adventure with real risk to life and limb was completed. We had risen to this challenge and maybe shown the way for some new leaders to rise to future challenges themselves.
The summit of the Cioch in the background and the climbing isn’t finished
Continuously interesting climbing
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 15