Page 19 - 2021 AMA Summer

Almost at the final snow-capped summit ridge of Flat Peak
Base camp was at 3200m, and we established a number of advanced base camps (ABC) at 3800m in order to tackle our objectives which were predomi- nantly 4900 – 5100m. We attempted these methodically, sending one or two climbing teams above ABC whilst keeping “one foot on the ground”. What you don’t expect to encounter at almost 5000m though is heat stroke, but that’s exactly what happened on day 2 of the expedition when temperatures soared from a standard 0°C to 20°C+, even at altitude. This becomes a real problem in risk management when you’ve gained 4000m altitude in 3 days and the symptoms of AMS and heat stroke are near identical. Nevertheless, those who fell victim were watched carefully and our two first ascents were achieved that day; Peak Eldin (4870m, PD+) and Amundsen Peak (5041m, AD), which would turn out to be our last 5000er of the trip.
What I’ve come to learn very quickly in expedition climbing is that 90% of your
On the North Face of Amundsen Peak (5041m)
time will be spent unproductively, and for a good proportion of the expedition we were huddled in the mess tent playing Sh*thead and drinking tea to shelter from storms. Whisky doesn’t last very long in these situations and when the rain did calm, we were left with few options but to use our climbing time well. The team, raring to go, achieved 12 more ascents, including 5 more first ascents of peaks; Murphy’s Mount (4925m, AD), Murray’s Mount (4715m, PD-), Charlotte Peak (4605m, F+), Kyrglehorn (4350m, PD 3a) and Holiday Hill (4105m, F+).
These articles usually end with a conviction that the writer will return. One of the great things about exploratory mountaineering is that the list is endless – the Altai, Queen Maud Land and Atomfjella are some of the ranges on my own – and so I don’t think that necessarily holds true here. Kyrgyzstan, and specifically the Kuiluu Range, should be next on yours.
Ewa climbing the slabs of Flat Peak (4711m) directly
SYMPTOMS OF ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS (AMS) AND HEAT STROKE
AMS
Symptoms of AMS usually develop between 6 and 24 hours after reaching altitudes more than 2500m and include:
• Headache
• Feeling and being sick
• Dizziness
• Tiredness
• Loss of appetite
• Shortness of breath
Actions on:
• Stop, rest, do not go higher
• Alternately, descend until
symptoms ease
• Rest for at least 24 to 48 hours
• For headaches, take ibuprofen or
paracetamol
• For sickness, take anti-sickness
medicine such as promethazine
• Drink sufficient water
• Do not smoke, drink alcohol or
exercise
• See a doctor if symptoms persist
HEAT EXHAUSTION AND STROKE
Symptoms
• Headache
• Dizziness and confusion
• Nausea and loss of appetite
• Excessive sweating
• Pale, clammy skin
• Cramps in arms, legs and stomach
• Fast breathing and/or pulse
• High temperature (≥38°C)
• Thirst
Actions on:
• Move to a cool place
• Lie down, raise feet
• Drink plenty of water, sports or
rehydration drinks
• Fan, spray or sponge skin with
cool water
• Cold packs around armpits or neck
• Stay with them until better or
evacuated
Source: www.nhs.uk
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 19