Page 38 - 2021 AMA Summer

CLIMBINGMEETS
EX TIGER DEVIL SLIDE
AMA Expedition to Lundy Island, 7 – 14 Sep 21 Matthew Bowsley
What if I were to tell you that there’s a magical, rarely visited climbing destination in the British Isles that promises no issues with parking, a 24hr pub and thousands upon thousands of routes waiting to be explored? It probably sounds too good to be true but Lundy Island is a 3-mile-long granite paradise in the middle of the Bristol Channel which promises all this and more. After nearly 20 years of knowing of Lundy’s potential I finally had the chance to visit along with 9 other members of the AMA as part of Ex TIGER DEVIL SLIDE in Sep 21.
The most oft quoted soundbite of the trip was ‘have an adventure’ and from the moment we departed Ilfracombe aboard the MS Oldenburg the adventure began. Approaching Lundy on a glorious sunny afternoon we were all keen to make the most of the excellent conditions. Having landed at the southern tip of the island and slogged up to the camp ground we quickly sorted the climbing essentials and raced for the West coast. Accurate navigation on Lundy is crucial to ensure you don’t find yourself descending into the wrong zawn, only to be faced with an unpleasant retreat ascending your abseil rope. Thankfully our group had several members who had previous experience on the island, so we quickly found our
Si on the penultimate pitch of Albion (VS)
objectives and set about making the most of the good weather.
Throughout the week, the group ticked off many of the 3-star classics the island is famous for such as Albion, Shamrock, Diamond Solitaire and The Devil’s Slide (in fact everyone on the trip climbed this route, some members doing it 2 or 3 times). When the weather wasn’t conducive to climbing the RCIs led revision and practice of systems and the poorer weather allowed time for further recces of potential crags and to enjoy the remoteness of being on an island with only a hundred or so other people. Each evening centred around the Marisco Tavern where tales of the day’s achieve- ments were recounted and aspirations for the next good weather window were debated over a pint or two and a hearty meal.
For me, visiting Lundy was 20 years in the making and I was delighted to have been included in the expedition. Being able to
climb as part of such a knowledgeable, friendly and motivated group made the whole experience easier and much more enjoyable than I anticipated. I hope to get back to the island soon and to catch up with the rest of the participants at future AMA meets. If you’re thinking of making a trip there yourself, don’t ignore the less visited crags, as there are some absolute gems tucked away from the more popular/ easily accessible cliffs.
A final word of thanks must go to Martin Corfield for planning the expedition and making it such a great success.
Si reaches the stance at the end of the second pitch of Quadratus Lumborum (S)
38 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Rhys on the delicate traverse at the top of The Devil’s Slide (HS)
My First AMA Meet
Carla Huynh
This was my first AMA meet, having joined after doing a RCF course last year. I’d never done any trad or multipitch before and hadn’t had much experience climbing outside so didn’t know what to expect... but what a place to try trad for the first time! I was fae less experienced than anyone else on the trip but was shown how to be a competent second, and towards the end of the week I did my first couple of trad leads. The highlight by far was The Devil’s Slide. It was a stunning day and truly exhilarating. All in all, an awesome week with a great group of people. I learnt a lot and can’t wait to buy a rack and do some more trad!
Carla Huynh on Lundy
The team return to Ilfracombe harbour