Page 23 - ALG Issue 4 2014 Digital Edition

Fruit trees and soft fruits are, to some, an essential ingredient in a well-stocked allotment. Frost-free periods in mid-November to mid-March are the right time to plant bare root trees and bushes which establish well and give you more choice of varieties. However, local rules around permitted cultivation can restrict a plot holders right to grow fruit; a number of allotment authorities, for purposes of excluding compensation for improvements under the Allotments Acts 1908 and 1922, do not allow any continually productive plants on a plot. For example, my own allotment agreement states that permission must be obtained to grow rhubarb, strawberries and trees, along with any other crop that takes more than 12 months to mature.
ROOTSTOCKS
Authorities that allow fruit trees will usually specify the rootstock that must be used and as growing your own has become more popular, there is a lot more choice of dwarfing fruit trees to choose from.
The Gisela 5 rootstock means that an allotmenteer can now grow a manageable sized cherry tree on their plot and the more adventurous can also try nectarine, pears and peaches on the new WA-VIT rootstock in warm regions of the UK. I have an Oullins Golden Gage on VVA1 rootstock, which will grow to 2.5m in 5-10 years depending on conditions. Gardeners must take care that trees on dwarfing rootstock are planted in good fertile soils and the area around
the tree is kept free from grass and weeds and mulched at the appropriate times. Here are some examples of dwarfing rootstocks.
Apple rootstocks
• M26 – Semi-dwarfing, 3-4 m • M9 – Dwarfing, 2-3 m
• M27 – Very dwarfing, 1.8 m
Pear and quince rootstocks
• Quince C – Dwarfing, 2.5-3 m
Peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, gage, damson rootstocks
• Torinel – Semi-vigorous, 2.4-3 m (the only choice for apricots) • VVA1 – Semi-dwarfing, 2.5 m
• WA-VIT – Semi-dwarfing, 2.7-3.3 m
Plums, gages, damsons only
• Pixy – Semi-dwarfing, 2.5-3 m
Cherry rootstock
• Gisela 5 – semi-dwarfing, 2.4-3 m
TRAINING
Another way of controlling the size of a fruit tree is by training as a step-over, cordon, fan or espalier – these may need slightly more vigorous rootstocks and it is always advisable to talk to a local supplier about the right type for your conditions. The tree will take up less space, is likely to be more productive and can look very ornamental.
• Step-overs are two branches trained horizontally in opposite directions, approximately 30cm (1ft) above ground.
• Cordons are grown at 45 degrees, tied to a wired support structure.
• Fans are five to seven branches arranged in a fan-shape, tied to a wired support structure.
• Espaliers are comprised of three or more horizontal tiers at space intervals, tied to a wired support structure.
PLACING
Your trees will cast shade on your plot and, if placed inconsiderately, onto your plot neighbours’ beds so before you plant make sure you are aware of the sun’s transit across your plot. Also keep in mind that the roots will spread out in to the surrounding area – at least as wide as the tree is high, and drain the surrounding area of moisture and nutrients.
POLLINATION
Some varieties of fruit are self-fertile, my Oullins Golden Gage for example, but others will need a compatible tree nearby to ensure fruit production. For apples, it is very likely that a pollinator partner will be
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