Page 9 - 2015 AMA Autumn
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                                 to encourage mountaineering and develop mountain leaders of the future. A recurring theme was the need to work in conjunction with AT rather than as an arm of AT delivery, focusing on where the AMA uniquely can add value: for example by enabling members to gain additional experience, routes and quality mountain days, in support of the JSAT scheme. We also must maintain the “fun” and recreational element of the sport.
A number pointed to the evolution of the AMA since its creation. Meryon Bridges puts it well:
“...back in the ‘50s and ‘60s the AMA effectively was climbing in the Army. It developed the guidance; it oversaw the training given in Towyn and Glenmore Lodge; it organised most of the climbing events and expeditions; it provided the voice of expertise and experience in advice to authority; and generally it dominated the sport.”
Since then the AMA has operated at a number of levels across both AT and sport, without a formal ‘SME role’; we have for example, no formal responsibility for approving JSATFAs. This is not the place to unpack the issues around JSP 419, Duty Holding and peer group climbing. While some felt that we should seek to achieve that formal role, most saw a clear role for the AMA to continue to lobby and to work with those with formal authority, to shape clear and unambiguous policy and practice to enable safe accessible climbing, with the minimum necessary administra- tive and bureaucratic overhead. There was also recognition that as a body, we possess a huge volume of experience and subject matter expertise, which we should continue to offer wherever and whenever appropriate.
As to the Crown Jewels, there were some diverse views. There was little debate that expeditions have their place, both large expeditions to major peaks with ‘summit’ and ‘development’ teams and small ‘elitist’ expeditions with ambitious aims. The quadrennial tri-service expedition drumbeat was seen as a good framework for development of leaders, and in terms of the organisation, leadership and membership AMA expeditions, as well as our contribution to of tri-service expeditions, we have much to be proud of. For some the 8000’s still have a draw and a certain cachet. For others, they have become commercialised and prohibitively expensive and the only way to go is small and light – or as one put it, quick and dirty – and exploratory. More than one suggested that to our younger members the AMA has an unhelpful image as a ‘big exped’ organi- sation. Everyone (bar none) praised the AMA’s achievements in promoting and sustaining sport climbing and the extraordinarily high quality of the events run by Pete Skinsley & Co. Many pointed to the further opportunity to leverage the power of sport climbing in the AMA and to promote and encourage progression – in either direction – between boulders and big mountains. The Festival of Climbing was also cited as an exemplar of the way in which we should operate.
Predictably enough, a vibrant meets programme was for all, fundamental to the success of the Association. The demise of the Winter Meet was much lamented. A number suggested a more regionally based AMA structure to better enable meets and there
were many good ideas to offer more around meets, from lectures to qualifications, to social activity to build and sustain the network of Army climbers. More ambitious was the suggestion of an AMA hut, potentially shared with another civilian club: challenging perhaps, but maybe within the reach of the largest mountaineering association in the UK. Working with the RAFMA and RN&RMMC was generally seen as a good way of achieving critical mass and being able to offer more, without becoming the default setting and there were positive suggestions around interaction with civilian clubs.
So what of the future: how does the AMA remain relevant? I suggest that most of the views here can be grouped under “engaging the membership”. Everyone who replied to me highlighted the criticality of communications: certa cito, music to my ears. All felt that we should leverage the full potential of Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat, WhatsApp, Instagram and the website; indeed some of the more passionate advocates were very clear that while they had no idea how to use social media they were nevertheless completely persuaded of the benefits of it! There was also huge praise for all that Ryan and Daz and their predecessors have achieved with the Journal and website. Communication of course is a two way thing and there was strong support for a regular survey of the membership and better use of the data we have and hold, both to connect members and understand where we can add value. It was generally felt that the AGM has a place but that if we are going to do it, then wherever it is, we should make it worth the trip by offering and promoting a rich weekend of climbing and social activities. The idea of using social media to allow more of our membership to vote at AGMs was popular as was the need to ensure that the committee so far as possible is representative of the full breadth of AMA members and their interests. .
So food for thought I hope, and I’m grateful to all those who took the time to reply and to you for reading this far. Of course having read this you may well conclude that it’s all quite obvious: “No, really Sherlock”, or similar. Fair enough. Maybe not much of this is profound or ground breaking but maybe that’s because the AMA is in fair shape. Let’s not beat ourselves up too much. Without being complacent, I judge that what we are doing now, measured against the original intent of our founders, is worthy and appropriate. We remain relevant. There is much that we can do to build on our successes: we must and we shall but we must also remember that for none of us is the AMA a day job, although some put in enough hours to make it so. Martin Bazire, as ever, hits the nail squarely on the head:
“I am well aware that bright ideas, even when filtered, still require the drive of a faithful and diligent core of protagonists, and I take my hat off to those who are carrying the flame”.
So enough now. The PYG is a fine place to reflect on things but I see now that the cloud has lifted and I can enjoy the view. It’s the same view; a great view!
Ivan Hooper
Major General President AMA
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