Page 27 - Simply Vegetables Spring 2021

and fungi carry out a number of functions in the soil including breaking down organic matter, releasing nutrients, help to form and maintain soil structure and can help to reduce some pest nematodes (eelworms). Recent research is showing the importance of both bacteria and fungi
in the soil as well as other
organisms like protozoa
and actinomycetes.
Which conveniently brings me to the nematodes! There are good and bad nematodes, some attack crops like
the potato cyst eelworm,
others attack pests and
help to breakdown organic
matter. If certain crops have been poor for a few years it may be worth testing for nematode types and numbers.
I have been in contact with a local company that carries out soil testing and they are happy to test NVS members
soils. I have set out the packages they offer below if they are of interest. There are other companies in the U.K. offering similar services, although not the same microbiological assessments.
Garden Basic: pH, P, K, Mg, NH4 - N & NO3 - N (Ammonium and
Active and Total Bacteria, Active and Total Fungi, Fungi hyphal diameter and Organism ratios, Nematodes (number, % feeding type). Price £85
If you are interested contact:
SoilBioLab Ltd,
213 The Commercial Centre, Picket Piece, Andover, Hampshire SP11 6RU, UK info@soilbiolab.co.uk or call (01264) 749761
There are good and bad nematodes, some attack crops like the potato cyst eelworm, others attack pests
Nitrate Nitrogen). Price £37.
Garden Advanced: pH, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, B, Cu, Fe, Mn, Mo, Zn, Na, CEC, Organic Matter, Sand % Silt % Clay %, Soil Texture Classification, NH4 - N & NO3 - N (Ammonium and Nitrate Nitrogen). Price £70.00.
With either of these, they can provide the option of an add-on test for a bit more: Garden Bio Basic: Moisture content, Active Bacteria, Active Fungi and Fungi
hyphal diameter. Price £35
Better Garden Bio: Moisture content,
Soil Composition
ROGER CLEMENTS
I would be grateful for member’s views on soil composition and particularly subsoiling, the breaking up of the subsoil the layer above the parent rocks. To test if the area needs subsoiling
or double digging (see Jim Symonds article) either use an auger and take
out a sample of soil down to the parent rock or at least a metre if the rock layer is deeper; or dig a 1 metre deep hole down to the water table. Doing either of these will reveal the horizons which are the horizontal layers of soil including the topsoil and subsoil.
The topsoil is darker as it contains organic matter, is more fertile and contains more soil creatures. The subsoil which is sometimes accidentally brought up when digging is usually a lighter colour and some clays can be nearly yellow in colour. In other areas it may be a red sandstone. The subsoil can often be compacted owing to not being cultivated and the downward pressure of walking and using machinery on the area.
Subsoiling is the using of tractor mounted tines that are pulled through
the soil to break and lift the subsoil and is sometimes carried out by good farmers before ploughing. The alternative for us amateur gardeners is double digging (see Jim Symonds article) where the subsoil
is broken up with a strong fork and the topsoil replaced. This provides a deeper layer for oxygen, water and possible nutrient that may have leached down. subsoiling is said to lower the water table on some soils.
Much of the nitrogen that leaches down can become unavailable to the plant
and often leaches out of the soil into the water table or drainage water and lost
to the plants. Any nitrogen lost has to be replaced by either fertilisers or organic matter. Some soil tests do not give results on nitrogen availability as it can change quickly especially over winter or a wet early spring. (See the article on soil testing for further details – Ed). Nitrogen lost from the soil is eventually washed out to sea causing the algae blooms.
It is interesting to note that two of our older members have both written something on double digging in this
magazine; may be this is the way to an old and healthy life so start double digging! – Ed
Feedback on Falco Turnips
I sowed D.T.Brown’s turnip seed Falco in a dark sandy loam with an alkaline pH which is suitable for turnips and some other vegetables. When I harvested them I found that owing to leaving them too long I had a variety of sizes but one had expanded to a black ball approximately 7 inches (17cm) in diameter. Cutting it open showed a large amount of yellow flesh, they may have been over-watered and given too much liquid fertiliser. Apparently as much is learned from mistakes as successes.
A Texan visited a Somerset farm and his farmer friend showed him around,
the Texan said call that a farm? Friend I could drive my car for three days before
I reached my boundary! The farmer removed his pipe and said “I had a car like that once”
Well I thought it was funny! – Ed.
Simply Vegetables 27