Page 13 - 2001/02 AMA Winter

Mount Saint Elias in Southern Alaska is 19,000’ high and is the 2nd highest peak in the USA, It’s also renowned for being a real bugger to climb due to the maritime climate that affects it. It’s remote location ensure that it is far from crowded and any expedition going there will have an amazing experience whether or not they summit. A ski plane drops you off below the peak and collects you again after the climb. The climbing is committing requiring mulitple camps and a strong team. This would be most suited to an AMA or JS expedition. Personal contribution would be £500-600 and 4-6 weeks would be needed for the trip. May/Jun is the best time to be there and you’d need ML(W)s and SGLs as a minimum.
Greenland is a climber and skier’s fantasy. There are still copious amounts of virgin peaks left to climb and plenty of scope for new routes. Remoteness is a feature of any Greenland trip and access is either by ski plane or yacht (for the really adventurous only). Movement around is on skis and there is scope for all grades of climbing. 4-5 weeks reqd. That's about all I know about the place, so the rest is up to you.
A n d a f e w p l a c e s w o r t h a v o i d. . i n. . g . . . . . . .
Mont Blanc (Gouter Route). If you enjoy queing with hundreds of foreigners on a well trodden (down trodden ?) Alpine Classic then this could be the route for you. If you really are determined to climb Mont Blanc then why not do the traverse from the Cosmiques Refuge ?
Mount McKinley (West Buttress). Of all those who climb in Alaska, 90% climb in the Alaska Range encompassing Denali National Park. Of these, 95% climb one route only. Yes, you’ve guessed it - the West Buttress. In May 1999 there were over 400 people on this route on the same day !! Is that what you go to the hills for ? Why not try the West Rib (Alaska grade III, instead of II) or the Muldrow glacier route (II). The Muldrow approaches from the North and usually has no more than a handful of ascents per year. It also involves a 3 day ski approach into the ‘Wild Side’ of the Range.
The West Highland Way. Well come on, it's not mountaineering is it ? If you really do want to do battle with the midges and the crowds you should also sew a cloth badge onto your knapsack and buy the naf T shirt.
Ecuador. Mind numbing slogs up dormant volcanoes are about as much fun as pan frying your privates. There are reputed
to be some quality high altitude treks (if you’re a
trekkie). but these are filled with American
tourists. If you want to go to South America then Bolivia has much more to offer.
toss McDougal enjoying a route in the Ailfroide area.
A view ol south Geogia.