Page 21 - 2019 AMA Summer

Now a trained logistician, his original and melting snow we set out at 0530
dash-to-the-summit approach of
sheltering in a bivi-bag and surviving on Pot Noodles was to be replaced with a meticulously planned expedition up the less used Punta de Vacas route. As the expedition’s leader his ethos was to walk ‘very, very slowly’, acclimatise gradually and maximise the summit window opportunity in the knowledge that conditions on Aconcagua’s windy summit are notoriously changeable.
Following preparatory training on the Winter Mountain Foundation course at Ballachulish for the six novices in the group, the APC team met up with its two instructors (including the AMA’s own Al Mason) and flew to Mendoza, via Buenos Aires, on 11 Feb 19. Two days later we began the three-day trek into the Base Camp at Plaza Argentina (4215m) with the trail gradually ascending on the banks of the Rio Vacas. As one of the last groups of the season into the Aconcagua National Park we were able to enjoy the scenery undisturbed. In temperatures of up to 35oC we were delighted to only be carrying day-sacks with mules taking the circa 40kg per person burden of equipment, rations and fuel.
At Base Camp we were superbly supported by Argentine outfitter Fernando Grajales and the logistics provided by their team markedly aided preparation and acclimatisation for expedition’s next stages. At this point our weather watching began in earnest with careful decision making required on when to
View from the Summit
The APC team with Aconcagua in the background
Camp 3
Summit Photo
ascend in order to summit within our four-day window. Over the next eight days we used a ‘climb high – sleep low’ approach to systematically move rations and equipment up the mountain via Camp 1 (5000m) to Camp 2 (5475m). All bar one of the group were able to acclimatise well to the altitude and although the ascent was not technical none of use will forget multiple journeys up and down the 400m scree slope below Camp 1.
On 25 Feb we completed our move to Camp 2 and set up camp by mid-after- noon. A little later a team of American climbers descended from a kit-drop at Camp 3 and it was apparent that a 13-year-old boy in their group was suffering from fatigue and mountain sickness. By early evening the boy’s condition had deteriorated towards HACE and under the leadership of Al Mason the APC team had to take the lead in his evacuation. With helicopters unwilling or unable to land this resulted in 4.4 km night time casualty evacuation to rendezvous with a doctor at Base Camp. The combined efforts of the American and APC teams allowed the helicopter evacuation of the boy to hospital the following morning and fortunately he survived.
This evacuation delayed the expedi- tion’s planned ascent, but weather conditions remained favourable and 28 Feb appeared to offer perfect conditions for summitting. We established ourselves at Camp 3 (5970m) on 27 Feb and after a short night’s sleep awoke at 0430 hrs to push for the summit. After breakfast
hrs reaching the Independencia Refuge shortly after sunrise. Conditions were still and sunny. We donned crampons and continued the gruelling ascent reaching the summit just after 1500 hrs. With one member of the group suffering markedly from altitude sickness we made a slow descent and arrived back at Camp 3 by 2200 hrs.
The following day the team recovered to Base Camp collecting rubbish and equipment as we retraced our steps through Camps 2 and 1. After a celebratory meal provided by Grajales and a night’s sleep we packed our kit for the mules and then began a two-and-a-half- day trek back out to the Punta de Vacas roadhead and then onwards to Mendoza and an awaiting steak (or vegetarian equivalent) and a glass of Malbec.
Approximately 3,500 climbers attempt to summit Aconcagua each year and through a combination of inadequate equipment, the effects of altitude and poor weather conditions only 40% make it to the summit. Through Major Barr’s detailed planning, an extended summit window and excellent teamwork the APC was the first Armed Forces team to summit since 2010. Although a massive physical and emotional journey for all involved the sense of satisfaction in par- ticipating in a success expedition was immense for all involved. Thanks must go the AMA, the Ulysses Trust, the Army in Scotland Trust and others for the funding support provided.
Descending the Scree slope back to Base Camp
Camp 3
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 21