Page 24 - 2019 AMA Summer

EXPEDITIONNEWS
Pat Allen mastering belaying in flip flops at Sella
views down the Sella valley. Climbing in early March in shorts and t-shirt definitely helped the overall enjoyment.
There is no requirement to drive more than 45 mins from Finnestrat to experience the full array of climbing and mountain- eering activity. Pushing down the coast to Sierra del Toix is a mix of single-pitch
Vinny Vincent and a splendid AMA Gillet at Sella
improver friendly through to what feels like big-mountain classic multi-pitch adventures.
Watch out for loose rock and scree in this area which, combined with a challenging albeit short walk-in, makes this a different couple of days. Limitations with instructor ratios curtailed more multi-pitch climbing in this area, although those that were qualified managed to tick off several routes. Routes are protected with a mixture of bolts, in place tat (some dodgy) and, due to coastal fracturing, it lends itself well to using bit of trad gear; don’t forget your cams. A post exercise learning point is the importance of deploying with sufficient RML or RCIs – both of which seem to be like hens’ teeth – to enable more multipitch climbing. The coastal views from here are breath-taking, the elevation which is accessed easily by car, makes it feel far more exposed than it actually is making for stunning photo opportunities.
A third area that was explored was Guadalest. More famous for being a tourist resort, be prepared to do battle with the coach loads of saga-louts vying for a parking space and coffee. The crowds don’t venture much beyond the cafes and sat high on a plateau behind the ‘strip’ is a split crag of several hundred metres width grading from 4 through to high 7s. Easy access, refreshments and natural beauty should place this high on your Spanish climbing bucket list. And if you’re climbed-out by this point, you can also visit the world famous (yes really)
FACTS i
ACTIVITY: ROCK CLIMBING
LOCATION: FINNSTRAT, NEAR BENIDORM, SOUTHERN SPAIN
ACCOMMODATION: WWW. THEORANGEHOUSE.CO.UK NOTE A PLETHORA OF LARGE HOTELS AVAILABLE IN BENIDORM OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND. IT MAY BE COST EFFECTIVE TO BOOK AN OFF THE SHELF ‘PACKAGE HOLIDAY’ FOR FLIGHTS AND ACCOMMODATION.
WHEN: SEPTEMBER TO MAY. TOO HOT OVER THE SUMMER
MONTHS.
LOGISTICS: ALICANTE AIRPORT APPROX 40 MINS DRIVE TO FINNESTRAT. HIRE CARS ESSENTIAL.
PARTICIPANTS: 10 TO 12 IS AN IDEAL NUMBER. CONSIDER CLIMBING (PAIRS) AND VEHICLE RATIOS INCLUDING BULKY KIT (3:1).
INSTRUCTORS – RECOMMEND DEPLOYING WITH A MINIMUM OF RCI, RML X2, RCS X2.
FUNDS: AMA, ATG, BERLIN MEMORIAL TRUST, RFCA, REGT ASSOCIATIONS, PRI, PERSONAL CONTRIBUTIONS. APPLY EARLY.
GUIDEBOOK: SPAIN: COSTA BLANCA (ROCKFAX) BY CHRIS CRAGGS.
KIT: WHILST PREDOMINATELY SPORT CLIMBING, YOU SHOULD DEPLOY WITH TWO LEAD RACKS; ONE ROPE PER PAIR. RECOMMEND EACH INDIVIDUAL DEPLOYS WITH PERSONAL HARNESS, HELMET, SHOES, CHALK, BELAY SYSTEM AND MIN OF 5 SPORT DRAWS EACH.
Salt and Pepper Grinder Museum of Guadalest!
In summary, there is nothing not to love about a winter climbing trip to Spain, just getting out of the office into warm, Medi- terranean air should be enough to tempt most. Coupled with world class climbing is the opportunity to refresh and revise in advance for the UK summer season. A fantastic expedition which could form the template of future AMA, unit or even personal climbing expeds. Below are a few learning points to help plan your own:
24 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Shane Moore at Sierra del Toix