Page 34 - 20145 AMA Spring

kit on trial
DMM Ice Axe Review
by Ryan Lang & Tomo Thompson
When winter arrives every year, it usually means the end of outdoor rock climbing for a few months.
All is not lost, one of the attractions of the UK
is that whilst it is widely known for its iconic
rock climbs, there is also a lifetime of winter mountaineering just waiting for you.
KARABINER HOLE
the type of axe. Mountaineering axes have a shallow pick angle whilst ice climbing axes have a much steeper pick angle. The pick has serrated teeth which are used to grip onto the snow and ice. Finally, the pick is used for self-arrest situations whilst on steep terrain. When on steep terrain, the pick is carried with the sharp end facing rearward
There are a few items of equipment that are
universally used no matter what the season such
as harness and helmet. Ice axes are an important piece of safety equipment that are unique to winter mountaineering that you may well consider adding to your arsenal at some point.
SHAFT
which is often referred to as the reverse position.
The adze is the broad end of the head that is shaped like a small spade. It is used for cutting steps in snow and ice and for clearing belay ledges and gear placements. When
walking with an axe, the adze usually faces forward.
The karabiner hole is used to connect a karabiner to the axe for use in a belay, but can also be used to connect a leash
to the axe.
Ice axe shaft: The ice axe shaft can be made from different materials such as steel, aluminium and carbon fibre. Steel is
very heavy but strong. Carbon fibre is very strong and light but also very expensive. Aluminium is generally the best as it
is both strong and light.
A straight ice axe is best for general winter mountaineering as it is easier to use for self arrest, building a belay and easily plunging into snow. Whilst curved shafts are designed to increase the power of a swing into ice and are used for technical mountaineering, ice and mixed climbing.
Spike: The spike is the sharp point on the bottom of the shaft which is usually made of steel. This is used to assist the axe in plunging through snow or ice. It is also used to provide balance when walking across snow.
Axes under review: This review will concentrate on the Fly which is an all round mountaineering axe and the Apex which is designed as a top end technical axe.
PICK
ADZE
DMM have a wide range of ice axes that cover the entire spectrum of winter mountaineering from winter walking, ice climbing and mixed climbing. They very kindly supplied a sample of their ice axe range so that the AMA could review them for the journal.
Before we begin, there are a few ice axe basics that will help anyone considering purchasing their first axe.
There are two main types of ice axe, those used
by mountaineers and those used by ice climbers.
Most mountaineers and mixed climbers tend to
use a basic axe whilst in the mountains. Whereas ice climbers, unless on easy angled terrain, use specialized ice axes which are a modified version of the traditional ice axe.
There are three main components of an ice axe, the head, the shaft and the spike.
Head: The head of the ice axe is the component that can vary the most between different types of axe. The head is usually made
of steel and comprises of 3 parts, which are the pick, adze and karabiner hole.
The pick is the ‘sharp’ end of the ice axe head and is used to penetrate the snow or ice. The pick angle will vary according
SPIKE
DMM Apex
Length: 50cm
Weight: See article RRP: Circa £175 each (before AMA discount)
Features
• Hot forged, ergonomic handle
• Dual handrests for leashless climbing
• High clearance shaft
• Pick weights for bullet hard ice and customised balance
• Supplied with grip tape for handle/shaft customisation
• Mixed and Ice specific picks available separately.
• Shaft rating: CEN-T certified
• Pick rating: CEN-T certified
• Leash included: No
• Materials: Aluminium, Chromoly Steel, Stainless steel
• Every axe has a unique serial number for ultimate traceability
32 ARMY MOUNTAINEER
The detail
The Apex replaces the Rebel as DMM’s top-end all-rounder, however it performs best on steep ice climbing and hard mixed routes The most noticeable feature is the extent of the curve - more pronounced than on most other manufacturers current ‘traditional’ (no offset handle) designs giving the Apex an extra cm or more of clearance. This means that the DMM Apex will clear ice bulges and cauliflower ice with ease, but still be comfortable to hold as a leashless tool. It’s also especially comfy and stable when holding the axe high up, when punching your way up snow slopes or snow fields. As the grip is not ergonimcally shaped like the Petzl Nomic or Ergo the Apex can be plunged well in snow,
a bonus when negotiating snow slopes and snowy sections of climbs.DMM have even supplied free Grip Tape with every tool
for the shaft. The Apex’s curve almost exactly matches that of the Petzl Nomic and BD Fusion 2 – both very well proven on vertical and beyond ground.
At 635g (adze) and 620g (hammer) the Apex isn’t the lightest out there, but is by no means hefty either. Removable pick-weights