Page 15 - 2011 AMA Winter

The unclimbed Point 5318m in Kyr- gyzstan’s Djangart Valley represented our primary objective as we set out for the region in early July. Alas, it remains unclimbed. Our attempt was foiled by a thirty six hour snow storm that began within minutes of our establishing camp on the mountain. Though we pushed up a rock rib to 4,750m once the weather had cleared, the cracking of an avalanche slab around us as we tentatively ventured to link up with another safe passage spelled the end of our climb. The route had not been difficult up to this point and didn’t look particularly tax- ing above, though the same can certainly not be said for the approach up the N1 gla- cier. Point 5318 is a worthy and achievable objective just waiting to be climbed. Our trip to the Djangart was not without success though, and despite being riddled with diffi- culties (as you might expect from an expedi- tion to climb virgin peaks) we return having made two first ascents.
Inspired by a 2010 Anglo-American expe- dition to the area led by Matt Traver and Mike Royer (their superb expedition report can be found at www.kyrgyzstan2010. com) we headed to this remarkably unex- plored region, consisting of over a dozen
unclimbed peaks over 5,000m and count- less others above 4,700m. What we had not appreciated prior to our arrival was just how beautiful the valley would be, nor how great distances would be and the difficul- ties of access in an undeveloped area. This particular problem was greatly increased by our inability to arrange horses in order to set up base camp in the valley itself. Instead, we were forced to set up on the wrong side of, and 900m below, a 4,200m col, thus adding five hours to each walk in. Conse- quently, some objectives became two days arduous walk away and instantly reduced the amount of climbing we could realistically hope to do. Our fitness, on the other hand, improved beyond all expectations! And so very early on in the trip, we realised that what we had embarked upon was very dif- ferent from any mountaineering either of us had done before. The unknown presented as much of a challenge as anything we would face on the mountains themselves.
When we did gain access to the valley we were stunned by its natural beauty. Not only were the mountains and rock walls hugely impressive, but so too was the vari- ety and quantity of wild flowers. We were also fortunate enough to see golden eagles,
Alex Phoenix Face Pik Laetitia
Richard looking at Pik Emma
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 13