Page 24 - 2018 AMA Winter

EXPEDITIONNEWS
an alpine route for JSAT expeditions but only has one pitch of 5a, the rest being lower. However, it was out of remit for us all, despite James having done it before but given the conga-line of mountaineers seen crossing the glacier towards it in the morning, the rock fall down the main face would have been too likely to risk.
5 HOUR RECCE
On the third morning together we headed up the Midi lift. The Doctor and Tom initially headed towards Nabot Leon with Rhys and Ryan, and Chris and I towards the Plan de l’Aiguille. Our objective, the 5 pitches graded 5a of Lepidoptéres. This route is
‘...a wonderful route which finds a way through some big country at a very amenable grade. Combining this with one of the routes higher on the Peigne make for a fantastic day on granite rock climbing...’
Sounds great! Having experienced a significant amount of chossy climbs on our previous venture into Italy we were keen to experience something more
stable. First, however, we needed to get to the base of the route. Yeah, that shouldn’t be difficult...should it? Stepping out of the gondola Chris and I headed up towards the dominant ridgeline of the Papillons Arete which adjoins the slabs of Peigne. From a distance we could clearly see the large slab that merged with the top of the Papillons Arete that James and Tom had later come to climb as an alternative; they’d already got to the base of the climb and had re-evaluated their plans having been delayed, like us, in Chamonix for the hundreds of millions of tourists going up the same gondola to take their holiday snaps at the Midi. We met them at the point where the scree slope met the rock, had a quick chat and moved on our way. Chris and I were on the right track. Large boulder; base of the cliff; move left along the ledge system until you can’t go any further. Easy! Climb the steep but low grade corner to the base of the climb proper. No problem. We rigged up, tied in and I set off on the first lead. 4a... not likely... there was tat at the start point, a steep corner that went up for around 30m like it should then more tat. More climbing
up a steep and now unprotected corner. I hastily made a belay where I could and brought Chris up. To my right, another ledge system with some old black bolts on a slab that provided more substantial safety. That seemed good. Chris arrived. We discussed the distinct lack of ‘warm fuzzy feelings’ of a well-travelled path and moved towards the bolts. This is the first time we noticed a series of rock cairns on the ledge system leading back towards the large boulder.
A little later, while still misinterpreting the guidebook, it had now been around 2 hours since we departed the gondola. We rapped off the pillar of rock we had mistakenly taken for our route and followed a pair of seasoned vets (old blokes) towards what we had hoped would be the base of our climb. I set off again up an arête and climbed into a corner. A greasy wet corner. Cheers Chris for another hospital pass - it was harder than it looked, and for a grade 4a (according to the guide book) it felt a lot harder – perhaps I’m just crap?! I topped out of the 20m pitch with much relief:
24 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Ben Powell on Aiguille d’Index