Page 30 - 2022 AMA Summer

REVIEWS
BOOK REVIEWS
UNJUSTIFIABLE RISK?
THE STORY OF BRITISH CLIMBING
By Simon Thompson / Reviewed by Al Mason
This book is a definitive history of British climbing and mountaineer- ing and delves into the detail from the inception of the Golden Age of Alpine Mountaineering commencing around 1854, up to almost the present day. If you ever wanted to know how the British conquered the Alps before the French, why the Alpine Club was a British invention or wondered who made the first ever ascentofaclassicrockrouteyouhave just climbed then this is the book for you.
The book aims to deliver a chronological account of British mountaineering in all its forms and interestingly explains that Alpinism began before UK rock climbing. The book also spends time to reflect on the social class of the early pioneers and what impact that had for the methods and manner in which peaks were climbed both
in the UK and abroad. It also dwells on the tensions of men and women during the 19th century and how male attitudes of the day affected their female counterparts in terms of recognition, social norms and acceptance. The same approach is then used to compare the emergence of ‘hard climbers’ like Joe Brown who had day jobs, and their acceptance or lack of, by the establishment of mainly upper-class pioneers undertaking what nowadays would be considered low grade routes requiring only rudimentary climbing ability.
The author had clearly conducted a significant amount of research and in addition to the exceptional level of detail in each chapter, he also spends time discussing the character of the various personalities of the day, highlighting not only their climbing prowess but also the
less attractive side to their personality; this results in the reader getting a real insight into the drives and motivation of the con- temporary climbers of the day and their unique, individual approaches to climbing.
Overall, this is not a quick read, and perhapsbestleftaloneiftimeisshortand one is more accustomed to enthralling tales of daring do. However, if you have the appetite for a ‘long read’ containing detailed historical information by the bucketful then this is your go to book for everything you ever needed to know about the story of British Climbing – in all its forms (except sport climbing!).
Élisabeth’s writing is passionate and evokes an intense feeling of urgency, yet it is also descriptive, allowing the reader to visualise the mountain scenes in both their beauty and their hostility. It is rare to come across a story like this written by a female climber, and Élisabeth’s story is gripping and heartfelt. It is a tragic story that doubles as a poignant tribute to Tomasz.
TO LIVE: FIGHTING FOR LIFE ON THE KILLER MOUNTAIN
By Élisabeth Revol (translated by Natalie Berry) Reviewed by Rachel Gibbs
Shortly after summiting Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat during only the second recorded winter ascent,
Élisabeth Revol noticed her climbing partner and friend, Tomasz Mackiewicz, was not himself. His vision had started to blur and ice crystals were forming in his eyes. Élisabeth’s moment of elation and joy quickly switched to panic and fear.
To Live is a refreshingly honest and moving account of Élisabeth’s battle to save both Tomasz, and her own life, in extreme conditions at high altitude.
Raw and expressive, the book explores her emotions throughout the nightmare event, as she asks why she repeatedly takes herself on these life-threatening adventures. The reader is taken back to her childhood and how it shaped her passion for mountains, interspersed into the account of the rescue attempt to get her and Tomasz to safety. She shares the exchange of messages she had with the rescue team, her pragmatic reasoning for her actions and decisions, and the despair she feels at not knowing whether she is making the right call.
30 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER