Page 20 - 1998 AMA Summer

The Aiguille Rochefort
A route review by Capt Paul Edwards
Being a mere 4001 metres high, and graded "Facile” the serious alpinist would prob­ ably hardly give the Aiguille Rochefort a second glance, except perhaps if he has to “tick it” in his quest to complete all the 4000 metre peaks. It is how­ ever an outstanding peak for veteran and novice alike, and makes an excellent excursion whatever grade you aspire to climb at.
Similar in style to the Midi - Plan traverse, although shorter and easier, the Aiguille Rochefort is a splendid proposi­ tion. The quality of the route combined with its accessibility make it one of the most popular routes in the French Alps. If you are seeking solitude on the ridge however, you must make an early start from the Torino hut and aim to complete the approach to the Salle a Manger before dawn.
The approach itself is straight forward, and a brisk wTalk across (hopefully) frozen ground will lead to a small cirque below the Dent du Geant. Above it a short couloir on the left marks the easiest line. The bergschrund is rarely difficult and the rocky ground above the couloir is not too steep, although it is somewhat loose, giving rise to considerable dan­ ger from stone fall if there are many parties above of you.
If you have started early and made good time, hopefully you will arrive alone at the Salle a M anger at dawn. From this large flat spot the Rochefort Arete stretches away in breath taking magnificence. This is not the time to stop for long however, and a short snack and a picture should suffice as the hordes from the first cable car will be hot on your heels.
AIGL ILLE DF. ROCHEFORT
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DentduGcant.
In good conditions the ridge will consist of a long, snaking, knife edge ridge with somewhat gripping drops on either side.
Inevitably a well-trodden path will mark the route and if snow conditions allow it the fore- summit will be underfoot in a
Paul and Slu at the Torino Hut for tea and medals.
GrandesJcirases
AiguilledoRochefort
Forcsummit