Page 29 - 1998 AMA Summer

Scotsman...
South of France - Summary notes The Areas
Campsite
Baou
Cimai
Buoux
Mer des Pierrdon
Campusun
83110 Sanary-sur-M er Fax: 04 94 74 2502
245 routes; F3c-7c, 25-90m, the majority are single pitch.
Rock: cretaceous limestone.
Style: different sectors, some pumpy and over hanging while others are delicate.
Distance to road: 10 min walk.
200 routes; 50 of which F4b-6a, some classic 4 pitch climbs.
Rock: limestone.
Style: bold and technical.
Distance to road: 5 min walk.
300+ routes; only about 15 are less than F6a,
20m-100m
Rock: calcareous molass.
Style: technique rather than power!, very delicate.
Distance from road: 5 min walk.
Distance from Ollioules: 1&3/4 hour drive.
Major Murray and SUO Steele (JSRL) high up on a belay stance at Cimai
Victoire and much of the Calanques due to the risk of fire. Advice from the Tourist information suggested that climbing was possible all year round apart from February, however it may be best to avoid mid June through mid September as well if you rather visit some of the larger areas.
Travel - Having driven, we feel there are a number of points worth making:
• toll’s: for the drive down and travel around the area for two weeks our total expenditure on tolls came to £267 for a minibus and van (the latter attracting a higher commercial rate).
• theft: our window was smashed once, the thief looking for keys, be very careful about this.
• the French drive like nutters!!!
Useful references
Internet
For those planning Exped’s to any area a very useful starting point for initial info and further references is the Cotswold Camping Internet Site. This has links to pages all over the world (this can be accessed at; http://www. cotswold. co. uk/). Of particular use there was the French Climbing Federation (FFME) page (http://www. lps. u-psud. fr/cosiroc/).
As well as these three principle areas; Faron Lierres, Destel and Coudon are also worth a look if you have time.
Other Areas
Les Calanques
One area we had planned to visit but didn’t (due to the extreme heat) was En Vau, in the Calanques Massif. This Massif boasts 15 km, between Marseilles and Toulon, of white cliffs and rocky coves (some of which require 40 min walk-in’s or passage by boat). The number of bolted routes varies depending on the specific area, allowing scope for many more traditional lines. Because of this and the restrictions in the summer (see below) this is perhaps not as popular as other areas, however it does offer some fantastic atmos­ pheric multipitch climbing (as high as 500m). The most notable areas are Socle de la Candelle and Le Cret St. Michel.
Around Aix-en-Provence
Those intent on staying inland for harder climbs may consider Ver- don and Montagne St- Victoire - both easily reached from Aix-en- Provence. Together with the Callanques, these are the three largest low-level lim estone m assif’s in France.
Other points
Climate - Most of the crags we visited face SE, and hence got the full heat of the morning sun. This meant climbing was only really possible from 1400 hrs onwards. Indeed some entire areas are closed for the summer months e. g. Coudon, Montaigne St.
Guide Books
Buoux, Duret P
Escalades autour de Toulon, Delpy J: ISBN 2 - 9510409 1997/1998
Les Calanques, Bernard G et al; ISBN 2-909132-02-1.
3 - 8 - Ed
Arinv Mountaineer