Page 9 - 1998 AMA Summer
P. 9
!ock in the Sun
the routes in the low grades rarely exceed 25 m in length but almost unlimited variations exist giving pleasing climbing to all.
Six miles past Aphrodite’s Rock on the way to Paphos turn right before Asproskremmos Dam. Travel about 13 miles passing through the villages of Nikok- lia, Mamonia and Ayios Yeryious. The road passes between the Scythe Rock and the Tower 3km after Ayios Y eryious.
2. The Climbs.
The Tower. On all my visits there has been considerable
Jamieson's rocks (L to R) the slabs, the tower and the boulder.
activity with nesting birds all 2 Project 2:
over the rock and I have been
unable to climb on the tower. 5m to the right of Project 1
ing loose rocks off the top. Descend by Corner route.
4. Curly’s Comer: SEVERE 25m
Start at the same place as for Ruthven Crack but follow the arete on the right to the top where care must be taken to avoid knocking loose rocks off. Descend by Corner route
5. Scar Wall. A1 25m
3m to the right of Ruthven Crack is a crack designed for pegging and any one wanting to start an aid climbing career is to try this one.
6. Comer Route: V/DIFF 25m
Start in the corner right of Scar Wall climb between the block and the tower and climb the corner on the left to the top of the tower. This route is also reversed and used as a descent route.
The Slabs. The next set of routes are on the slabs hidden from the road by the tower. This is about the best rock on Cyprus and because it faces southeast it stays clean and dries quickly in the sun. The routes (See Diagram 1) are list ed from left to right when fac ing the rock.
1. Ladies Route: DIFF 15m
Climb the large fallen block at the left hand end of the slab then climb the obvious crack above tending right at the top to finish
2. Two ladies route: HARD V/DIFF 22m
From the same block climb the blunt nose immediately right of ladies route. Move up and right at mid height across the sloping crack system to belay from the tree. A good lead
There are some routes already documented although the accu racy of these descriptions is doubtful they were included just in case the rooks and hawks ever disappear. Climbs are described standing between the Slab and the Tower, from left to right. See diagram.
1. Project 1:
A line of old bolt holes can be seen following the thin seam/ crack that appears in the centre of the wall. The route seems to finish at the top of the crack, just below a pair of nesting hawks.
appear another series of bolt holes which have since rusted, the line above seems a more fea sible bet than project 1 but again finishes near to the top of Project 1.
3. Ruthven Crack: HARD SEVERE 25m
Climb the tower up the obvious crack just left of the corner (bulging start). Near the top the crack runs in to an over hanging corner which is passed to the left. This brings you onto the top of the tower where care must be taken to avoid knock
Arhiy Mountaineer
