Page 26 - 2002 AMA Winter

Below rock step on Hohlaubgrat on Allalinhom.
Rescue Helicopter.
Joint Service Alpine Meet [JSAM] 2002
The author.
Rob - summit ridge of Ober Gablehom.
by Damien Gartland
I don’t know what it is about the JSAM but I only ever seem to find the time, or should I say get the permission to attend at the end of a 2-year tour. This has the clear advantage of allowing you sufficient time to organise travel, finances and plan routes with little feeling of guilt (The CR is in the bag and that glorious “days to do” feeling makes every­ thing so much more enjoyable). However the flip side to this euphoria is that I inevitably start a new job as soon as I return and the necessary administration, debt clearance with the RAO and the compulsory PXR are difficult to fit in. To that end, I now find myself in mid November, finally finding the time to write my AMA article. So my apologies if I miss you out, but my memory is fading with the passage of time and fuddled with too much new information.
I had been looking forward to a responsibili­ ty free JSAM, but unfortunately the Army Leader, Andy Stevens was forced to pull out with an injury at the last minute. Fortunately for me, Andy had already completed the vast majority of the administration and selection, making my roll as stand in, far from taxing. On behalf of everyone who attended JSAM 2002, “Thank you Andy"
JSAM 2002 was based in the small Swiss village of Saas Grund and it was the Royal Navy who had the task as this years lead Service. The overall Meet Leader was Lt CDR Neil Hicking, a highly experienced and technically proficient alpine mountaineer. His advice and guidance were invaluable and his witty bar room tales legendary. He too deserves our thanks.
The Mischabel campsite in Saas Grund proved to be more than adequate and the staff were extremely helpful. As Is becoming the norm, not all the AMA participants reported for duty. I find this action very ignorant and totally unacceptable. What made this year's failures
all the more intolerable has been the fact that those AMA members also failed to get in touch before or after the exercise. No expla­ nation has been given nor apology offered (But enough of my griping). Those that did attend showed immense dedication. Richard Hathway completed a solo journey that fully fitted the criteria for a screenplay of Planes, Trains and Automobiles II, while Jeanne Ebling and Sean Stewart both had an inter­ esting 24 hours without any baggage. Following 2 different flights, to 2 different airports, on 2 different airlines, they achieved the same result; both were left in the clothes they stood in and not a climbing harness between them. Ingenuity and a healthy credit rating soon solved their problems.
JSAM 2002 was unusual in that the Joint aspect of the meet was more pronounced than in previous years, and this is in my opinion is a very good thing. Members of the Joint Service Makalu expedition formed a tri service group of climbers, in preparation for their forthcoming trip. The Joint Service High Altitude Team trained together throughout the week under the expert tutelage of Martin Price an ex RM ML and the venerable chairman of the RN&MMMC Andy Hughes. The remaining individuals joined together on a number of mixed service ropes in the friendly melee that was the campsite. Much debate and banter followed the foolhardy statement by Rob Magowan that a climb completed outside the guidebook time did not count. The overarching aim for all ascents became “ good style” and to be recognised as a Brit was decidedly bad form. (This proved somewhat difficult when climbing with Sam who habitually dressed in cut off Ronhills, but we tried).
Finally to the mountaineering. Day 1 saw all JSAM participants attending a mandatory Glacier Revision day. The Army contingent guided again this year by Mac, moved up to
M_______ ARMY
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