Page 35 - 2002 AMA Winter

one intends to use a hut system. This is likely given that major load-carries tend to take the edge off one's skiing ability; there is only so much face planting one needs on a tour!
However
The compromises can be overcome however. Skis can be carried (or left behind) for final technical pitches, goals can be extended as one gains in confidence and fitness. The equipment can be fixed with a lightweight repair kit and some ingenuity. There is still a wide range of destinations where huts can be used (and they may often be in less populated areas) and, with a bit of organising, tented base camps can be established which allow lightweight tours off to a series of objectives. Finally, many options are opened up which are simply not feasible on foot. Snow-shoes don’t quite achieve the same effect..
Life is a Journey
I have always been drawn to expeditions that involve journeying rather than laying seige to a fixed objective. This to me is ski moun­ taineering’s strongest hand; allowing one to follow a natural line across a mountain range or glacier and including diversions to climb peaks or gain spectacular views. For those readers who are as inspired by the travels of Cook, Shackleton or Thesiger as by the feats of Whymper, Hunt and Messner this will strike a cord.
In this article I have sought to communicate a bit more of my own personal enthusiasm.
well worth the slog! The remainder of the day was spent descending to the valley to prepare for the big one the next day. The ascent of Mt. Blanc is not quite a simple undertaking, and every year several people lose their lives on the massif. A worrying fact, as causing the CO a manning crisis was not a stated expedition aim! The climb started with a long trek to a point known as the 'Grande Couloir’, this gully acts as funnel for regular avalanches and rock falls. The exposed area is 100m across, and in this modern age there is a sophisticated method of crossing it, you run for it! Luckily, we all made it across in one piece, and continued on a classic alpine route of rock and ice to the hut. The Gouter hut at over 3800m was
As your ski mountaineering rep my investi­ gations, so far, have identified a number of individuals with a shared passion, and far more experience. The British Mountaineering Council have approached me about the AMA getting involved in representing Britain at international competitions and I am regularly hearing about new contacts to follow up. One website Id recommend visiting is www.eagleskiclub.org.uk.
The AMA will soon be sending out another census. I have fed in some questions, which I hope will provide some feedback to the committee on interest in ski mountaineering. Please let them know if you’d like to see more activity on this front by answering the appropriate questions.
The next two articles will consider more closely the possibilities of Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering (see the definitions in the last edition). Between now and then I am hoping to get off and actually do some touring, so there may also be an article about Ex Canmore Diamond. Until then those who are interested are once again advised to investi­ gate the courses offered by JSMTC Indefatigable and the British Alpine Centre, Bavaria. Keep an eye out also for Ex Northern Challenge 3000, led by Major Kevin Edwards and which will include ski ascents of up to 25 peaks in the Canadian Rockies. He can be reached on 94740 2085.1remain contactable at:
Damienp@btinternet.com 01634 822377
Chatham Mil 2377
our overnight stop. Unfortunately, by this was making slower progress. There was a
point the strain was starting to show in our group. A couple of the party were thorough- ly exhausted and not feeling well. After a bit of scoff we all hit the sack in preparation for
an early start.
Summit day started at 3am, we were now down to five as two of the party opted to wait in the hut, as they weren’t feeling too well. The pressure was on from the start as the weather forecast predicted high winds for later in the day, and the final part of the route was an exposed ridge to the top. After an hour, the guide decided to split the group, three of us would push for the summit and he would continue with the other climber who
narrow window in the weather and Mac was concerned about the conditions later in the day. The following few hours became a blur as we retreated into the recessed of our
gortex jackets! The wind on the summit
ridge was gusting to 50kph and the temper- ature was -30 deg C. However, we pressed on and finally made the top, tired and frozen. Our departure from the top was a little delayed though, as we had to thaw out our cameras for the obligatory photos. Mission accomplished, we raced down to the others and headed for the valley for a celebratory beer! In the words of our wise guide ‘Never remember the climb, only the top or you’ll never do it again’!
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