Page 12 - MENU Mag - July/August 2017

YOUR STORIES
A FEAST FIT FOR A PRIME MINISTER...
Ottawa-based members on doing business in our nation’s capital
BY MARI NEWMAN
PLAY
Stephen Beckta is an eminent and a able Ottawa restaurateur. The owner of PLAY FOOD & WINE and BECKTA—he embodies the hospitality that hallmarks each of his establishments.
Opening in Ottawa’s Byward Market in 2009, PLAY was a second attempt of sorts. His rst at- tempt—he’d envisioned becoming a distinguished neighbourhood eatery—altered course. “Shortly after we opened [BECKTA]...it
took on a seriousness that I maybe didn’t originally contemplate, or even desire.” Creating a four-dia- mond establishment wasn’t a bad thing, it just wasn’t the goal. So, he got to work planning again. Beckta is hands-on. Authenticity, care and commitment are core company values shared by his sta .
At PLAY, no special occasions are required. Food is served in small portions which encourage diner-driven combinations and ample sampling. “Doing small plates allow(s) us to be able to play,” says Beckta. The format of- fers a meaningful food experience, without a big price tag. Lauded Chefs Tim Stock and Mike Mo att are inspired by menu items from across Canada. PLAY’s wine pro- gram, led by Wine Director Connor Gallagher is international with a soft spot for Canadian and natural wines (made without chemical and minimum technological interven- tion in growing grapes and making
them into wine).
The recipe for success at PLAY
has been Beckta’s refusal to con- form to traditional dining models, while providing a nely-tuned service ratio of fun to leaving din- ers with a genuine sense of feeling cared for. PLAY’s greatest chal- lenge is nding the right people to maintain this balance for longterm positions. Demographic shifts
plus a regional culinary explosion equals fewer quali ed candidates. He recognizes the search takes patience. “You need to wait it out until you nd the right people.” PLAY’s bankable solution to these market shifts? “Constantly keeping it fresh and exciting,” Beckta says.
Downstairs in the mansion, there is a plaque inscribed with Bob Marley’s lyrics: “In this great future, you can’t forget your past.” Meeting the future well is always Beckta’s goal. He has collaborated with Ottawa 2017 to set Cana-
da’s Table—an unprecedented culinary experience taking place on August 27. Canada’s world-class food, wine and hospitality will be showcased at a single, 1,000-per- son, open-air table on Wellington Street in downtown Ottawa. 10 top local chefs will partner with 10 top chefs from regions across Canada to stage a legendary four-course dinner with wine pairings in the shadow of Canada’s iconic Parlia- ment Buildings.
PLAY: Chef Tim Stock
PLAY: Wine Director Connor Gallagher
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12 MENU JULY / AUGUST 2017