Page 11 - MENU Magazine - March/April 2018

it in a convoluted way by calling it a ‘ sh!’” Laughing, he adds, “I can’t wait until moose is considered a sh too.”
This pursuit of access to authentic terroir
is the reason why Modat and his colleague Frédéric Laroche started Bravejack, a docu- mentary that follows their Canadian hunts and the ensuing meals. The pair describes Brave- jack as their way of getting back the know-how and the traditions that make us Canadian while sharing this know-how with the culinary com- munity. Together, they go across the country, hunting with local chefs and cooking what they kill on the spot, right on the forest oor under Laroche’s artistic eye who documents the en- counters and the feasts.
“Canadians need to know what hunting means and which avours are available in their home and native land,” says Modat. These
two friends and colleagues are driving this con- versation. “Eventually, we would love to take [Prime Minister] Trudeau and even his minis- ters with us on our adventures,” says Modat. “There is a lot that needs to be done when it comes to serving wild meat in restaurants, and the people in power need to come here and see to understand.”
Modat explains that from the time when wild bison became extinct in the 1940’s, laws have been very prohibitive when it comes to hunt- ing, and the conversation has simply stopped. What he would like is to work with the govern- ment and adjust the laws to what makes the most sense for the industry, from a sustainabil- ity standpoint and to make wild meats acces- sible to Canadian operators. The chef shares an anecdote of two American friends coming to Canada for three days of hunting. They can each kill up to 20 geese a day. So by the end of
their trip, they could have shot a total of 120 animals!
The problem is that they can’t take the meat back home and they can only eat so much in three days. So they just leave it behind. “This waste has to stop,” declare both Modat and La- roche in unison, “and to make it stop we need the help of a government that is more exible and willing to work with out tters to up-cycle these abandoned carcasses.”
Restaurants are the solution to this intolerable waste. They want to use the meat and give their customers a taste of authentic Canadian terroir.
Culling is part of forest management. It needs to happen to preserve the constant re- newal of the forest and to avoid some species overtaking others. Snow geese are actually overpopulating some parts of the country, and the government relies on the help of hunters
to control the population. But now, hunters also need the government’s help to reduce
the waste caused by foreign hunters who hunt and don’t take the meat with them when they leave. Chefs can help both the government and hunters in reducing wastage while showcas- ing unique Canadian gastronomy with local avours. Herein lies a wonderful opportunity to develop culinary tourism in Canada.
When Modat and his passionate friends
go hunting, they don’t go on their own. They usually get the help of locals and profession- als from diverse backgrounds—from butchers to biologists. There is a lot to know regard-
ing laws and tracking an animal, but also in understanding how taking a life will impact the environment, and the Bravejack team wants to make sure they do it right.
Whenever they are on the hunt for more ex- clusives meats, they travel north and ask for the
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Restaurants are the solution to this intolerable waste. They want to use the meat and give their customers a taste of authentic Canadian terroir.