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A LOOK INTO HAWAII’S LOCAL DISTILLERS
Despite Hawaii’s relatively new success in developing spirits and its influence on the local market, the state has always been
the ideal perfect backdrop for proper distillation. With opulent volcanic soil, pure spring water, an abundance of tropical fruit, tea leafs and world famous sugar cane it’s hard to comprehend how Hawai’i is only now discovering its voice in regards to distillation. The variety of spirits available throughout the state range from a sweet potato shochu from Hawaiian Shochu Company on O’ahu produced in a very traditional way, to a rich buttery rum agricole form Native varitials of sugar cane at Kuleana Rum Works on the Big Island and a variety of rums including coffee and coconut.
The Past
The commercial success of Hawai’i made spirits may be a new phenomenon and a trendy in- transit souvenir for tourist but the act of Hawaiian spirit making can be carbon dated back to ancient Polynesia. Õkolehao which is a highly regarded indigenous spirit made from the root of the Ti plant produces a natural sugary starchy ferment. However, it wasn’t until proper distilling practices and the introduction of sugarcane, pineapple and cultural influences in 1790 that spirits reached mass appeal here in Hawai’i. It was even a personal favorite of King David Kalakaua who in- fact owned and operated his own distillery which produced his own variation of Õkolehao. The tasty yet crude libation saw great success up until the end of War World II when more palpable spirits imported from the mainland became popular, thus pushing the production of Õkolehao into mere extinction. In the 1960’s Õkolehao production reemerged through Ti Root Õkolehao Corporation and even provided a tax break for local producers through a mandate issued by the state of Hawai’i before the Federal government deemed it illegal due to: “Discriminatory taxation of a spirit product.” In recent years the US Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives
By: Crystal Arnold
has legally recognized Õkolehao as a Distilled Spirits Speciality (DSS) akin to Hawai’i much like moonshine is to the southern part of the country. In 2009 Haleakala Distillers released an 80 proof Õkolehao becoming the states only legal producer of the spirit at that time and opened the doors for other distillers in the state.
The Present
We have recently seen Hawai’i producers distilling clear spirits of rum and vodka. Maui has been home to Old Lahina Rum in 2003, Haleakala Distillers who made Braddah Kimo’s da Bomb Rum (RIP) which opened in 2004, and and Ocean Vodka in 2005. It took till 2008 for Island Distillers to start production on Oahu. Then came Kauai’s Koloa Rum in 2009 and Upcountry Maui’s Hali’imaile Distilling in 2010. However, there was a lull in distillery openings as the economy recovered from the Great Recession. It wasn’t until 2013 when Hawai’i Shochu Company and Ko Hana Rum were founded. Subsequent openings included Royal Hawaiian Spirits in 2014 and Kuleana Rumworks in 2017. Most recently Koolau Distillers followed the Paniolo Blended Whiskey route by creating a whiskey product blended with a clear spirit, which in the case of Koolau Distillers, is a white whiskey instead of the neutral pineapple spirit found in Paniolo Blended Whiskey. Coming soon to the market will be Maui Brewing Company which will be producing both gin and aged whiskey.
The column
Hawai’i Aina Distillers 101 will explore the different approaches to distillation including ingredients, techniques, and equipment to better understand not only who is doing what but also what fuels their passion for distilling. n
HAWAIIBEVGUIDE.COM FEBRUARY 2019 HAWAII BEVERAGE GUIDE A-7