Page 20 - Sonoma County Gazatte May 2017

Valued Family
By Ron Skaar
My mother, Dode, was the best cook back on West 59th Street, Minneapolis. I
was positive about that. Playing over at a friend’s house near dinner time usually included an invitation to join in their family meal. But the aromas coming from their kitchen were just not the same. I hardly ever missed the 5:30 p.m. dinner call at our house.
There is still no match for my mothers’ pancakes, wa es, macaroni and cheese, potato salad, shrimp salad or her incredible fresh strawberry pie in the summer. Dode’s “Ginger Cream” bars were always an essential part of the weekends spent at my Uncle Kelly’s cabin on Lake Wapogasset, in Wisconsin. Those bars plus her salmon croquettes, French oniony “Sloppy Joes” and a ground meat, tomato and cabbage dish are still on my roster today.
While enjoying roast ham on a Thursday, (always on a Thursday), we could dream of the big batch of split pea soup she would create for the following Saturday’s meal. Our suppers were balanced, always including a vegetable and salad along with the rotation of a starch and protein. Mom got me involved early on in the dining process by allowing me to create the evening salad. My love for all things crisp and green, and for the avocado, crouton, and a variety of salad dressings stems from this early guidance.
Ham and Split Pea Soup
“Your greatest gift is the ability to grow things.” my venerable 96 year old Aunt Clara told me recently. The green thumb is another valued trait learned thru my mother. Laura and Steve, my older siblings, declined to learn the di erence between an invited plant and a weed. My sun-burnt mother was often crouched over the garden beds. Gradually I joined in to assist in fending o the weeds and tending to the plants.
3 quarts water
2 medium carrots, sliced 1⁄4 inch
1 piece smoked bone-in picnic ham (about 2 1⁄2 lbs.)
2 celery ribs, chopped
4 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 1⁄2 cups split green peas, rinsed and picked over
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 new potatoes, medium dice
2 medium onions, chopped
Pinch sugar, ground black pepper
We lived on a large lot with ower gardens wrapping around three sides of the house. Sweet peas plus dark purple clematis swept up the brick chimney. The back yard had a huge perennial ower bed along the western side. Up a short hill there was a velvety iris patch. On the other side of the “upper forty” as my father called it, was the constantly growing vegetable garden. Dad hated to rip up the precious sod, but we eventually got our way and added extra feet to this garden, almost every year.
In a large soup kettle bring the water, ham and bay leaves to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to simmer until meat is tender, approximately 2 hours. Remove meat and bone from the broth; add split peas and thyme, simmer until peas are tender, about 45 minutes. Shred the ham meat into bite-size pieces, discard bone and rind. While ham is simmering, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the onions, carrots and celery, saute for 5 to 6 minutes. Reduce heat and add the butter, garlic and sugar. Continue cooking vegetables until deeply browned. Add the sautéed vegetables, potatoes and shredded ham to the soup simmering until the potatoes are tender. Season with pepper to taste. Serves 6.
We looked forward to planting the seeds, tending their growth, then enjoying the fresh vegetables and fruits. Strawberries lined the front of the bed with rhubarb along the back. In between were rows of carrots, beans and huge bushes of beefsteak tomatoes. Fed by chicken manure, and lots of sh emulsion those delicious red globes were the biggest delight of the summer, and still are today.
Split pea soup is both hardy and healthy, chocked full of ber and nourishing vegetables.
The following recipe is similar to my mother’s Saturday night special. If you don’t have a bone in ham available you can substitute a couple ham shanks or ham steak and bacon.
Photo by Jon Russo
20 - www.sonomacountygazette.com - 5/17