Page 12 - Sonoma County Gazette February 2020

By Peter Posert
Peru, Potatoes and Leche de Tigre
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The old 5th grade social studies textbook was c
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r w w i i t t h h b b r r o o w w n n p p a a p p e e r r f f r r o o m m a a g g r r o o c c e e r r y y s s t t o o r r e e b b a a g g. . I I s s t t i i l l l l r r e e m m e e m m b b e e r
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the east, lush verdant valleys, tropical rainforests, and the t
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waters of the Amazon River to the northeast.
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it. Buried in the middle of the book was a picture of a cold high-mountain ledge, just a rugged rock outcropping, and a family of smallish smiling people with brightly colored hats and jackets, huddled around a fuzzy llama with a basket filled with bunch of colorful smooth pebbles.
The complexity of the Peruvian cuisine reflects the T
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ombined natural forces of the land and sea, as always o
That utilitarian model was how we were taught to see
the world. What can Peru make for ME? Cotton comes from
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Now it is easy to experience and imagine
a localized cuisine reflects its environment. The
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disparate Peruvian landscapes makes its combined food spectacular.
They weren’t pebbles at all, though. They were potatoes. “Potatoes come from Peru.” That’s what the book cheerily said. We memorized it for the test. Llamas and potatoes and funny colored hats were the utilitarian lesson for us middle class American kids.
This is exactly what our own daunted “California Cuisine” strives for. Hence Peruvian cuisine is worth an exploration beyond just being thankful for the potatoes
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in the store.
t h h h h e e e e P P P Pe e e e r r r r u u u u v v v v i i i i a a a a n n n n c c c c u u u u l l l l t t t t u u u u r r r r e e e e a a a a n n n n d d d d l l l l i i i i f f f f e e e e s s s s t t t t y y y y l l l l e e e e t t t t h h h h r r r r o o o o u u u u g g g g h h h h i i i i t t t t s s s s
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Egypt. Vanilla comes from Madagascar. The whole world
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Is this even an appropriate way to understand life on the planet? One way to break through the utilitarian model is to actually experience a culture firsthand, to meet with the people as equals and see their joys, hear their music and of course, enjoy their foodstuffs.
A defining moment for the discerning palate is the entry point. From there, your meal is either going to go up or go down. But if the entry point gets your attention and holds it through the memory of a whole meal, then it’s a special type of food indeed.
The Peruvian entry point has the potential to be one that is seared into the “thumbs up” memory in just this way.... ceviche! All three Peruvian restaurants in our midsts serve the dish, all with incredible ceviche trio- sampler formats.
Peru is about 3 times the size of California. Like California, it has a tremendously varied topography, but the Peruvian landscape is more dramatic than ours. Peru boasts a rugged coastline to the west, high Andes
Ayawaska RestoBar
Trio de Ceviche: Fish Ceviche, Seafood Medley Ceviche,& Tuna Ceviche.
You Pick em’ Trio: Ceviche Mango, Ceviche Mixto, & Ceviche Verde
Quinua Cocina Peruana
Trio Marino: Ceviche de Pescado, Ceviche Mixto, and Leche de Tigre.
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aurants have both popped up in Petaluma to join the
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uisine. In the past year or so, not one, but two Peruvian
is there to make wonderful things for ME to buy in the store
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u s s S S a a z z o o n n o o f f S S a a n n t t a a R R o o s s a a . . W W e e n n o o w w h h a a v v e e t t h h r r e e e e P Pe e r r u u v v i i a a n n
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cuisine destinations in our county.
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Nobody questioned the philosophical or moral underpinnings of our consumer-driven upbringing.
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The Ceviche de Pescado (fish ceviche) is boldly acidic and bright, flourishing with lively lime- like tartness from the leche de tigre sauce and rich firm pieces of rockfish. On its own, it is a bold and spectacularly flavored dish.
The menu lists a whopping half dozen different ceviches, including a you-pick-em trio platter. We chose Ceviche Mango, Ceviche Mixto, and Ceviche Verde on
a recent visit but everything on the list is fantastic. The Civiche Mango’s flavors are transported along by a bright mango-lime marinade that is fun and refreshing, like your favorite amusement park ride with shrimps! The Ceviche Mixto features a nice array of mixed seafood
Quinua is a lovely neighborhood restaurant just down the street from downtown. Lively music plays quietly, there are plenty of romantic two-top- tables and some larger formats as well. The trio platter starts with Ceviche de Pescado which carries a subtle, mild vibrancy. This dish is so delicious without the often bracing tinge of acidity of so
The Seafood Medley Ceviche isn’t on the regular menu but it could be a stand-along dish, too. From tender-yet-chewy calamari to pieces of varied fishes, all marinated in a lively and hot vinaigrette, this is solid ceviche - the stuff of classic proportions and flavors - it’s the great basic dish.
in bold and lively marinade. The Civiche Verde is a thing of beauty on a different plane altogether. There is a mild pleasant earthiness that comes from celery that transports the dish to another level and soft, sweet and ebullient scallops that are worth the trip just to savor. Sazon and its ceviche’s is the kind of restaurant that you can just fall in love with.
many other ceviches, like a beginners first step
that everyone will be enamored with as well. The Ceviche Mixto is the classic dish with a variety of seafoods, bold and lively citrus tones and lots of different textures to enjoy. The Leche de Tigre is a wonderful and surprising take on the a traditional dish that is worth the trip to explore. One gets the sense of the excitement and vibrancy of the Peruvian cuisine scene in a small, personal, neighborhood place like Quinua.
The Ceviche de Atun Oriental (tuna ceviche) is rich, complex and at the same time delicately smooth on the palate. This ceviche brings home the tenderness of tuna. The addition of sesame seeds and oil enlivens the lingering finish. Soft, ripe, and delicious avocado enhances the creamy tuna texture.
129 Sebastopol Road, Santa Rosa (707) 523-4346 | sazonsr.com
500 Petaluma Blvd So., Petaluma 707-981-7359 | quinuacocinaperuana.com
This is a great dish. All three ceviches in one serving, along with a Pisco sour at the jumping and lively bar, make for a great time at the newest Peruvian place. There is a lot of fun to be had at Ayawaska RestoBar.
101 Second St. #190, Petaluma 707-559-3519 | ayawaskasf.com
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