Page 26 - SCG December 2015.indd

The Rich Rhizome
By Ron Skaar
Native to tropical Asia, the Indians and Chinese have used ginger as a spice
and tonic root since very early times. Ancient Greeks were the first to bring dried ginger to the Mediterranean and later on, the Romans exported the root from India.
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Ginger was used lavishly by the Romans but its usage nearly vanished after the fall of the empire. When the Arabs took over the spice trade, ginger became an im- portant item of commerce between the east and medi- eval Europe. In the middle ages a preserved form of ginger was imported. It doubled as a camouflage for old or bad meat and was used in sweets.
o matter what El Niño may bring, and we hope for a good batch of rain, in scattered bursts that keep our people and property safe in Sonoma County - but with no promise of rain to fill our reservoirs and the
Second only to pepper,
ginger was the most traded
commodity in Europe. In
those times, spices were
more precious than gems. By the 14th century, one pound of ginger is equal in price to the cost of a whole live sheep. A century later ginger is being imported from tropical Zanzibar, where it was planted by the Arabs.
Dry Farming
In many parts of the European Union, including the dry Mediterranean climate of southern France, it’s illegal to irrigate because of the compromised quality of wines of irrigated vineyards. When there is a shortage of rain, there is a shortage of wine. The smaller quantity, though, can often produce a greater quality, allowing growers to make up some of the shortage experienced with
a smaller crop. The South of France experiences a similar climate to Sonoma County - we can learn from them... Emeritus Vineyards of Sebastopol does just that, dry-farming its vineyards. They have received many accolades including top 100 wineries of 2015 from Wine & Spirits, and their 2013 Pinot Hill Pinot Noir received 93 points from Wine Spectator. So dry-farming is not necessarily a compromise in successful wine-growing. For more information on Emeritus, visit www.emeritusvineyards.com.
Holiday Toasts
With the holidays approaching, a lovely way to start any holiday meal
is with a toast. In the past, I’ve often picked many sparkling wines from California. This year, after the terrible tragedies throughout the world,
most recently for the people of Paris, Beirut and Russia, how about showing solidarity with a wine selection from the country of France, beacon of art, beauty and democracy, and, of course, wonderful wines, and make a toast of “Liberté, égalité, fraternité” for the world. When doing so, there are so many wonderful French champagnes from which to choose. One of my favorites
is Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV (non-vintage) champagne. It has nice easy flavors of cracked wheat, baked apple - an elegant edition to any dinner, birthday, and upcoming holidays. The other is the incomparable Billecart- Salmon NV Brut Rosé. If your love affair is Sparkling Champagne and oysters here’s a pairing I find to be among the best I’ve ever found: buttery Malpac oysters in the half shell and the elegant subtle red fruit and racy elegant acid of the Billecart-Salmon. If you’re unable to locate Malpac at your local seafood purveyor, look for Kumamoto oysters or Dungeness Bay.
Holiday Wine Picks
Found today throughout tropical climates, ginger lends its name to 45 genera. These include galangal or Thai ginger and small seeds of the ginger family called grains of paradise, native to West Africa. Turmeric is also a dried rhizome from the ginger family, which has been cultivated in India since prehistoric times. The brilliant yellow spice is a large part of curry powders weight and colors most of our mustards.
Another cousin is cardamom, the third most expensive spice behind saffron and vanilla.
The best dried ginger comes from Jamaica. Fresh ginger has a much richer and sweeter flavor than the dried root or powder. Most of our fresh ginger now comes from Hawaii, their harvest running from December to June. Fresh ginger has a remarkable culinary range, similar to the quality of lemon juice that refreshes with bright floral and citrus aromas. Its mild, peppery pungen- cy also compliments flavors rather than dominating them.
The addition of fresh grated ginger to recipes that call for dried ginger will ad an extra pungency to your holiday baking. I’ll bet ole’ Elizabeth would enjoy this new take on gingerbread.
Hook & Ladder Pinot Noir 2013 Russian River Valley (ret $27-$32). Beautiful red fruit on the front of the palate, well-integrated oak combine
with subtle spicy red-cherry flavors as well as raspberry. The finish is filled with dark berry flavors, earth, and forest floor, lending itself to be slightly “Burgundian”. A perfect Holiday wine to pair with turkey, ham or goose. Enjoy now through 2017, no decanting necessary.
photo by Jon Russo
inability to replace ground water within a single season, dry farming is
still our future.
CHOCOLATE-GINGERBREAD COOKIES
For cookies, whisk together in medium bowl:
3 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tablespoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 tablespoon baking soda
1⁄2 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
Cream in the bowl of standing mixer:
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened 1/3 cup solid vegetable shortening
1⁄2 cup dark brown sugar, beat until fluffy Add: 1 large egg, at room temperature
1⁄2 cup molasses
2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled
Hook & Ladder Sauvignon Blanc 2013 (ret. $20), barrel-fermented which allows the high acidities of the fruit to be rounded out on the palate. While still crisp, this Sauvignon Blanc makes for an exceptional sipping wine and makes a great pairing for seafood, salads and poultry. Enjoy now through 2016.
Incorporate the flour mixture into the wet mixture in three batches. Beat between additions. Divide dough into three equal parts, shape into disk and wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate dough for a couple hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper. On lightly floured surface, roll out 1 disk of dough to 1⁄4 inch thick. Using 3-4 inch cookie cutters, cut into shapes and place on prepared sheets. Bake the cookies for about 7 minutes, let them cool for 5 minutes and transfer to wire racks to cool completely. Frost the tops with royal ic- ing. This dough is so easy to work with; it would probably make a great shell for an incredible chocolate mouse tart. Makes 60 3-4 inch cut out cookies. Keep in airtight container for up to 5 days, or freeze.
26 - www.sonomacountygazette.com - 12/15
While not specifically dry farmers, Hook & Ladder has included some 118 acres of their vineyard property in the Sonoma County Agricultural Preservation and Open Space District and incorporate many environmental practices such as integrated pest management and water preservation. The Hook & Ladder Winery Tasting Room is on Olivet Road and open daily from 10am to 4:30pm. For more information on Hook & Ladder, visit www. hookandladderwinery.com.
Upcoming Events:
Celebrate an old-fashioned Christmas in Duncans Mills on Saturday, November 28th, from 2 to 5pm. Santa and Mrs Claus arrive by Fire Truck
at 2pm and there’s a Tree Lighting and Caroling at 4:30pm. For those of you without persons under 21 years-old, we hope you’ll stop by Sophie’s Cellars for wine tasting paired with cheeses, 11am – 5pm.
John Haggard is owner of Sophie’s Cellars, Sonoma Wine Tasting in Duncans Mills, California. Sophie’s Cellars is open Thu, Sat, Sun and Mon: 11am – 5pm, Fri: 11am- 7pm (Local’s Night, Friday, 4-7pm, and you don’t have to be a local to join us). www. sophiescellars.com