Page 12 - Sonoma County Gazette August 2019

Rock Climbing with Respect
By Jerry Dodrill
The 1950’s and 1960’s are considered to be the “Golden Age” of California
rock climbing. Back then, climbers like Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard learned blacksmithing skills to forge hardened steel pitons that could be used and re-used on the faces of El Capitan and Half Dome.
As climbing became popular it became obvious that continually driving “pins” into the rock was not sustainable. By the early 1970s, new technologies were developed that made the hammer obsolete.
These days, climbers often learn basic skills at an indoor climbing gym or through the mentorship process as experienced climbers train their friends
at the crag. Most of the tens of thousands of climbers in North America today will never even own a rock hammer, and that’s a good thing. We have learned to be forward-thinking in our actions, relationships with land managers, and other user groups.
By Patty Ginochio
Beauty abounds everywhere while hiking the Sonoma Coast Kortum Trail
Climbing at Sunset Rocks is primarily practiced in one of two ways:
from the ocean vistas, crashing waves, glorious sunsets & scenic hiking trails. Oh yes, there are some famous rocks there too!
Bouldering is the purest form of gymnastic movement, requiring no gear except a pair of sticky rubber shoes and a bag of gym chalk to
Sunset Rocks, also known as the Mammoth Rub, stand tall in the vista. Take a deep breath and feel the peace that settles over you while in their presence. Their striking height and tumbling rocks draw you to them.
dry sweat from your fingers. Often you will see climbers using a “crash pad” to protect from a hard landing on the pad. Friends will “spot” the boulderer to be sure that if they fall, they land safely on the pad
Why are they so special? Why does your heart skip beat when you are there? Do they talk to you? Most of us say yes, they make us feel we are in a very special place on earth.
Top Rope climbing is for the taller rocks where a fall would lead to injury. To set the rope, one must either lead or scramble to the top, set an anchor of slings and carabiners, then double the safety rope. Once the rope is established, a climber can tie in with a harness while a partner “belays” them, taking up the slack as they climb.
In both of these methods, there is NO IMPACT to the stone!
The challenge is to climb the rock in its natural state. If a route it is too difficult, you practice, train and become a better climber so that one day you can hold on long enough to reach the top by fair means.
Chipping or drilling the rock
to make it easier is unethical,
illegal, and not tolerated by the climbing community.
Would they tell us about the hypothesis that the Columbian Mammoths 10,000 to 12,000 years ago rested in the cool wallows to bathe nearby then came over for a good rubbing on the rocks that formed a smooth glossy finish? Would we learn of the
Because climbers probably spend more time hanging out at the Sunset Rocks than most other users, a large share of the burden of stewardship is upon us to be the eyes and ears of the stone, protecting it from those who might damage it for selfish reasons.
On a recent visit, I came across a professionally guided climbing class with trained instructors & children climbing the rocks. I asked one of the leaders if they were aware of the sensitivity of this area, he said absolutely yes and he had the required permit from California State Parks.
If you are there and see anybody hammering or trying to break the stone, it is up to you to ask them to stop.
I then met with Jerry Dodrill, an accomplished world climber & local photographer to learn more about climbers on the rocks. He shared how important the rocks are to climbers as many have taken their first climb here.
If it seems like there is any chance of a conflict it is important to contact park rangers or staff.
“The pre-historic nature of climbing here is like stepping back in time. You can literally feel a tactile connection to the past as you grip the stone, flex your muscles, and enjoy the thrill of moving over stone. It’s about as primal as it gets,” Dodrill said. “I believe that recreation is the gateway to conservation. You can’t have such deeply formative experiences without wanting to help preserve the resource for future generations.”
Large groups and commercially guided groups are required to have a permit from the State Park. With so many people who are passionate about experiencing and preserving this magical location, it is critical that we are even more diligent to be respectful of each other, and the resource.
The rocks have inspired stewardship among the climbers.
12 - www.sonomacountygazette.com - 8/19
PHOTOS: Jerry Dodrill Photography
ROCKS cont’d on page 13
If the rocks could speak, oh the history we could learn.
early inhabitants, how they lived, sheltered and loved the rocks too? Could the rocks tell us today how we should care for them to keep the history and love alive for future generations?
Breck Parkman, Retired Senior State Archeologist California State Parks, who discovered and presented the theory of the Rancholabrean rubbing rocks in 2001 sums up his feelings when visiting the Locus
1 – 4. He recently shared with me “the rocks remind me of an ancient cathedral, fallen into disrepair, but not easily forgotten. The spires all but touch the sky and we are drawn to them, like the ancient mammoth was drawn to them long before us. The rocks are a seductive landmark and they will remain alluring for all who follow. We discover them each in our own way”.