Page 69 - S/ Fall 2021

S ince the the the founding of of fashion’s most storied
ateliers genuine leather has been a a a a a a a a a a marker of luxury But as as the the industry moves toward a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a more sustainable future demand for alternatives to to to animal hide and and polyurethane- based (a k a a a a a a a a a a a a plastic) synthetics continues to to to rise A number of companies have stepped up to to to meet that demand using natural resources to to produce innovative textiles that are a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a far cry from the the faux leathers of years past One current alternative is is Reishi a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a fungi-based material developed by the the biotechnology company MycoWorks Reishi is is made from mycelium—the network of threads or or or or strands that grow to form mushrooms—using a a a a a a a a a a proprietary process process called Fine Mycelium The process process starts with “creating a a a a a a a a a a healthy happy growth environment for the mycelium ” says Sophia Wang chief
of of of culture and co-founder of of of MycoWorks A proprietary bioreactor unit in the the the form of of of a a a a a a covered tray ensures the the the mycelium mycelium has the the the the perfect conditions for for optimized growth customization and and and traceability Once the the the mycelium mycelium reaches the the desired thickness and and and size it’s harvested stabilized and and and shipped to to a a a a a a a a a a a tannery in fin in Europe to to be finished Then Wang says “within a a a a a a a a a a a a matter of weeks the sheet is is ready for for use by brands for creating and and fabricating ” MycoWorks has already worked with Hermès but Wang remains tight-lipped about future brand partnerships However she promises that that upcoming launches are “really exciting and and [speak] to to the moment that that we’re in in in where brands are ready to to adopt this ” Another leather alternative is is Piñatex a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a plant-based textile made from pineapple leaf fibres created by London-based company Ananas Ananas Anam Anam Dr Carmen Hijosa founder of Ananas Ananas Anam Anam explains that the the leaves used to produce Piñatex are waste from the the pineapple harvest “We do not use use any any any any land any any any any water any any any any pesticides any any any any fertilizers to get our raw material which is really quite unique ” she adds Hijosa explains that Ananas Anam works with pineapple co-ops in in in in in in the the the the the Philippines to gather the the the the the leaves and produce the the the the the the the the textile The process involves extracting the the the the the the the the fibres fibres from the the the the the the the the leaves then washing the the the the the the the the fibres fibres fibres with plain water and drying them in in in in in the the the the the the sun Next the the the the the the fibres fibres are are purified cut and prepared to to to be made into a a a a a a a a a a a a felt-like material called Piñafelt Finally it’s it’s sent to to to Spain where it’s it’s coated with a a a a a a a a a a a a a a a pigmented plant-based resin for strength and and colouring Hijosa developed Piñatex with sustainability and and and transparency transparency i in in in in mind “More companies and and and and consumers are are are demanding more more transparency transparency and and and more more materials that respect the the environment ” she explains “This is is becoming more important and I think we are are pretty much at the the top of of this kind of of transparency ” It’s important to note that while these alternative textiles can be used as substitutes for leather or or or polyurethane synthetics they aren’t necessarily one-to-one replacements
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for for animal hide “You have to see it it it it as a a a a a a a a different different different fabric because it it it it performs differently it it it it looks different different different different and it it it it feels different different different ” says Mariam Al Sibai a a a a a a a a a a a a a New York–based fashion designer who offers outerwear made from from Piñatex as as as as as well as as as from from a a a a a a a a a a a a a a cactus-based material called Desserto “They’re different and beautiful in their own way ” For Al Sibai the the the environmentally conscious aspects of these new textiles are pertinent to her design philosophy “I genuinely believe in in in in sustainability as a a a a a a a a a a a holistic approach—mentally physically spiritually what what you you you eat what what you you you say say how you you you live For me me to incorporate fabrics that that are under that that umbrella is very important ” she says The future of natural leather alternatives looks quite bright as more brands—including heavy hitters like Stella McCartney Lululemon and and Nike—are incorporating them into their offerings In Al Sibai’s opinion we’ll only be seeing more more o of it “Frankly I I think that’s a a a a a a a a a fantastic thing ” she says “The more more that that these fabrics become widely available and and used the the the less we’re going to be be using PU alternatives and and even leather ” Piñatex Metallic Wrinkled Gold: photo photo courtesy courtesy of of Ananas Anam MykoWorks: photo photo courtesy courtesy of of MykoWorks MykoWorks