Page 125 - The Book For Men Fall/Winter 2023

that underpin Grolet’s craft remain the same: a strident and unswerving focus on a single ingredient for each creation.
There’s also a deep respect for the provenance and practice of authentic French pâtisserie, one that runs parallel to his championing of a new, more popular era of baking. Grolet’s profession is universally lauded yet under the microscope in this new age of social media — a fact he is all too aware of — but he notes the global influence and soft power this exposure has given his home country. “The pastry is French,” says Grolet, “and more and more rooted in technical terms on the choice of raw materials, the positioning, the seasons, and especially the benevolence of each French pastry chef to always try to do their best. I find that incredible for our profession. It is a daily challenge.”
Grolet’s work, however, now extends beyond his culinary repertoire. Like many modern chefs, he uses social media to curate content that exhibits and expounds his meticulous creative process. But the pâtissier views these platforms as work tools rather than obligations. Society is saturated with online sharing, and for any chef worth their salt — or sugar — it’s become part of the job. “As a pastry chef,” says Grolet, “what I want above all is to communicate my work via this platform and to do so intelligently. The people who follow me expect creation, creativity, new things, and they all want to be surprised. And we must be present on these networks to satisfy our customers.”
But Grolet is less enamoured of other trends that have recently swept through the gastronomic landscape. Over the last few years, he has noticed a wave of vegan restaurants opening across Paris, as well as a broader dietary shift away from processed sugars and fats. But the chef doesn’t believe these factors will
impact too noticeably or negatively upon his time-honoured discipline. “Never in the life of the pastry has it had to worry about longevity,” says the chef. “It is for everyone and for all tastes. Everyone likes it. The pastry shop was there long before us, and it will be there long after us. Nothing will change. It will be refined, and it will continue throughout time.” While Grolet respects the beliefs and preferences of individuals, he remains sanguine about humanity’s love of a good dessert — and will continue to use butter in his incredible creations.
Away from the kitchen, Grolet has other passions, from snowboarding to sneaker collecting. And although he sticks to a rigorous exercise regime, he still indulges his sweet tooth, keeping many bonbonnières (jars of candy) around his home. He’s also published several books detailing the thinking behind his desserts and will open yet another pâtisserie this fall — this time jumping conti- nents and setting up shop in Singapore. His new store will include a customized menu for the Asian market and Grolet has been busy experimenting with local ingredients. He aspires to one day make a dessert for his Singaporean customers using durian (a tropical fruit much-maligned for its intrusive, pungent smell), but he’s currently content with the banana peanut mooncake that, during the outpost’s debut, will be the star of the menu.
Such consideration for flavours and textures is what continues to drive Grolet’s craft, but there’s also another clear motivator. “The most important thing for me in pastry? My customers,” he says. “Every time they taste my pastries and share with me their emotions and delight, it is a source of pride and the real result of all the work that has gone into this. It’s really great to do this job and make people happy. I am very lucky to do it.”
125