Page 115 - Sharp Winter 2023

SHARP WATCH
Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime
$450,000 USD
Over the course of its 65 years of existence, most had assumed thatwe’d al- ready seen every angle of approach to the legendary Moonwatch by now. It seems we were wrong. This all-new Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime is hands-down the most complicated mechanical timepiece ever offered by the brand, and a culmination of over six years of research and development.
For any skeptics in the room, rest assured that there were no corners cut here. Rather than a modular addition (where a complication is stacked onto an existing caliber), this manually wound chiming chronograph has both its timing and chiming functions integrated into the base movement. Taking things a step further, in a nod to timing precision, the caliber runs at 5 Hz, allowing it to pre- cisely measure intervals of 1/10th of a second. Even with this high frequency and added complexity, the Chrono Time delivers a healthy 60-hour power re- serve. Naturally, something so precious required the use of precious metals — a hefty mass of Sedna Gold for its case and bracelet, of course
Breitling Navitimer B02 Chronograph Cosmonaute $13,500
It’s been a big year for Breitling’s Navitimer, and a big year for the brand as a whole, but the 362-piece limited edition Cosmonaute reissue is the watch that stands out as much for its heritage as it does for its unorthodox functionality. So the story goes, astronaut Scott Carpenter requested a 24-hour time display on a Navitimer, allowing him to differentiate between AM and PM in the darkness of space. The brand de- livered, and thus the Cosmonaute became the first Swiss wrist-worn chronograph in space on May 24th, 1962. To mark its 60th anniversary, the reference was reborn, albeit with a few modern accoutrements.
Before one notices the difference in numerals, the Cosmonaute appears to be yet another classic Navitimer pilot’s chronograph. It sports its usual three subdials and a slide rule, once used by pilots to calculate metric to standard conversions, fuel consumption, air speed and distance calculations, and more. Beneath the dial lurks Breitling’s in-house manufacture B02 automatic chronograph caliber, albeit with minor modification to allow for its 24-hour display. History buff or not, there’s a charming quirkiness about this piece — a je ne sait quoi about its time indication. A challenge to read, at first, it’s an especially rare functional choice that you won’t find from anyone else in the market.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
5811/1G
Price on request
With the 2021 announcement that the immensely popular Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 was going to be discontinued, the horological rumour mills promptly went into overdrive. Would 5711 values skyrocket? Would Patek completely reinvent the wheel with a new reference? What fate would come to the brand’s Gerald Genta-designed legacy? Well, we finally got an answer this past fall, and for most, it’s exactly what brand loyalists had been hoping for.
At first glance you’re likely to feel like you’re playing a challenging game of “spot the difference,” and that’s precisely what Patek was going for. Why mess with something that’s working so well, after all? The 5811/1G, cased in white gold for its inaugural release, hides a few surprises that improve on its predecessor. Its case is one millimetre larger, but more importantly goes back to two-piece construction — a detail revived from the old Nautilus 3700 from 1976. Patek has also developed a new bracelet clasp with a locking adjustment system. All told, this isn’t the big splashy release that some were hoping for, but now that the Nautilus has its new form, it becomes a question of how the balance of the collection moves ahead.
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