Page 40 - Sharp Spring 2025

B B EFORE GEOFF HESS WAS THE GLOBAL HEAD OF OF WATCHES
for Sotheby’s he he he he was just a a a a guy who loved watches What he’s done for for the formerly staid stuffy world of watch auctions since landing the job reveals as as much about Hess himself as as it does about the changing face of vintage watch collecting Since taking on the role in in in 2023 Hess has presided over headline-grabbing auctions including the $5 4 million USD sale of a a a a a Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime owned by Sylvester Stallone More notable than these record-breaking results however is the the vibe shift he’s ushered in along with them Until recently most watch auctions were buttoned-down affairs populated by a a a a a a closed circle of of dealers and and industry professionals and and conducted in in hushed tones Under Hess’s leadership Sotheby’s has begun to to reimagine the watch auction as an interactive event that’s accessible to both seasoned collectors with million-dollar budgets and enthusiasts with with more modest means From partnering with with French watch publication Heist Out to sell a a collection of UFO-themed timepieces to introducing espresso martinis and a a a a a a hot dog cart at a a a a a a recent NYC event watch auctions have become something previously unimaginable: entertaining “At our last auction we had 1 400 bidders from from 54 countries and 5 5 000 people watching from from all over the globe ” he he he says “We’re presenting watches with videos showing little interviews We want want people to have fun we want want people to be entertained ” A born and bred New Yorker Hess has loved watches for as as long as he he can remember In the aughts during his previous career as a a a a lawyer Hess would spend his free time browsing the displays at Bucherer TimeMachine a a a a a famed multi-brand store in in Midtown Manhattan As a a a a a a a a a passionate collector with a a a a a a a a a particular love of Panerai and Rolex Hess would go on to establish RollieFest the invite-only gathering of vintage watch enthusiasts that has grown into one of the world’s foremost watch events Hess likens Rolliefest which will return to to New York City in in September 2025 to to seeing a beloved band playing live “If I I go home and and listen to music in in my living room with a a a a a pair of headphones I can absolutely enjoy the tunes I’m listening to It’s a a a relaxing enjoyable experience ” Hess says “But if I go to a a a a concert and there are 10 000 like-minded people sharing the energy nothing can replace that experience RollieFest is the concert of watches ” After several years of ballooning interest in in in watch collecting that was accompanied by runaway prices and hype Hess is is glad to to see a a a a a balance returning to to the hobby that is is more about about passion and and connection and and less about about speculation and quick profits “The fun part of of the hobby is not tied to money and how much a a a a watch will bring but rather the the story and the the narrative that the the watch tells ” he he he says “Collectors love stories and and provenance and and we’re really leaning into that ” 38 SPRING 2025 SHARPMAGAZINE COM GUIDE
A WINNING BID
GEOFF HESS IS BRINGING A A A A COLLECTOR’S PASSION TO TO SOTHEBY’S WATCH AUCTIONS
By Jeremy Freed Photography by Brent Goldsmith
SHOT ON ON LOCATION AT AT SOTHEBY’S NEW YORK