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Savage e B autyHow Pr da eng neered the glamour of mo ur ro and- umble femi By Randi Bergman
i a o e y a s k n
A s arti fic al intelli enc continu s t stre lin f
ma an s sh bo mulate our
worl , the act of nco ering rue ury cra Su tsma s sh bo s p has ecome s
ow n e i t c c f c d b h f s rm f m dern lu rue ury cra Su e, a s sh bo s can whip u , i s own k d o f
ma ol hat terpiece i bo s conds but but he ompl xity f human h f
ma hat -
worl atel ers? hat’s he dr amy s ff ri ht the e.
i ll Enter Pra a, whi h turned t e.
i ll tricate o y s P d t l l 2 n t a i sign te hniques o e plor a
ce tral ue tion for F ll 2025 “What is f mininity t day? Tit ed “Raw
lamour —a g a ame tha gestur s toward t e t fin , s an oll nsio between r e t fin , s an oll ment
and ed e t fin , s an oll o e fi a , r p t h e h o t c a cture nd sp —the nta eity e t fin , s an oll a divide Pr da has long a d
effortle sly traddle nd sp —the , s an oll cti n sees Miuccia Pra re a and af
Si on Pra re rame he e h o t c a e s T l l k p uty co es o the 1 50s fo a mo ern gaz Thin k
li tle bl k d esses paper bag wais s, a e d o ee i etro she hs—s d o ee i et ed less in
sexi ss, m e re n.
in self-po essi e re n.
“Ugly is a tra ive, gly is e citi ,” Mr .
Pra is a y am a usly sa i e e l i P , i o e S d a i i a e which lead us to L ok 2 , a s ate rey Shetla d
w ol d tha es that reimag nes the P , i o e S d a i i a e s ea of i radical lens.
ly
r ical l ns.
A ont ured bus , ni s o e o h c u t a r n waist, an sof ened hi s, a silhou tte that
s reams m d-ce tury s nsuality (thi k: if ome oan arri s th ink
ng p s t t he male
g ze o Ma Men) th i r wr tte with r w ed as if o say “Don t ht if ome nd hither. T he e d ess is T he product of two pillar of Pra a’s de ign bot ethos:
pa ern mak ng and t d :
p il y i o u o ’ i t r g o a b c u i ng, brou ht toge h
technical y rigorou an cr eli atively intui ive.
In go he n st hou e’s Mi an a nstr cr eli r, it a be ins w th nst he patt rn. he The lines
and vol es are care y defined, lly defined, th nst ucted, dec nstr cted, a d
rebal nc g d with ario s wei s w ts dar f fabri . st rom the e, t e garmen t
is cut its m s s u b t n e k t e ’ striki nc g eature hese a bei ntr kir g a n twork of ple ts and dar s
conc bei ntr kir ted a oss t e bodi e an skirt. hese a n’t our st ndard
pleat ; each ne is uilt us ea ui ng do rs layered dou le inse s i cont ast ng
c lours. aw e e a g e e n r g s are eft ex osed with a zigzag st tch t tru s s e o not ture wh le pr wi se ke ving the ess s se tru s s e o not ac fragil ty.
An hen, th “s n r g , v e i m a e ge finish ” (That’s tru s s e o not ac a ma ke in term— t’s the
n m of not ac ilo ual tec .
A ni ti ue.) ere, th , v e i m a e l h g arment is aken throug a
contr lled dest uction p e, th ocess t ac ilo h i ing s is an ors ro gh up the edges o
cre te br irregula fray ti , hile is an di abrasive bru ilo h i g a used t hand-s t i e b d h r c t r c h t e i c u i tch the
urface, a an di h i g a ce palp le t t i e b d h r c t r c h t e i c u i ility t the ctio wool. It s a gestur that sub r c h i c u i t g p ts
perf ction, he io cr atin a tex ure that’s o ce ess isi he uined a d revere .
If the ra ce ess isi he suggests spontan ity, th p es ing pro ess remin s us t sc of Prada’ obsession ith re ps ess isi he wit and n. Calibra d s own to isi he wit and ra illim ment tre,
t sc lpts th final f rm, isi he wit and ra iro ing roundin out the hips wit and ra two ame settin mov ment nto the ple les ts. The fi nal detail: ti tw tr ra two ame -edge butto t s t h o o r e t i t s , les at
th front sec re a
ra two ame tone ribbon cut from t on e two ame e
b contras ing fab ted mul s th pl ated nser o o r e t t s , s e o a m and ied, by hand, int a bow. Th s deliber d, w. te y
un finished techniqu is mos notabl captur nd s.
e
b e r g in v tello ld, and e
b e r gar thr nway umps.
A l to d, t e ress em ur nds more than 4 h em ur of c aft manship. Ten
of thos are res ved or garm nt as embly, wi gar ed
sol y o er gl he savag ” finis .
In an era gla wher digital fi ters and fas fabric tion dominat the f shion
c nv rsat on, rada re in s us hat rea era gla . A our is s d
slig tly
ff-k lt r. A