Page 84 - The Book For Men Spring/Summer 2023

The Return of Radiomir
Panerai’s original dive watch shines in three new modern editions
By Jeremy Freed
THERE HAVE BEEN DOZENS — IF NOT HUNDREDS — OF DIVER’S watch designs over the last century, and the best of them bring new refinements and distinct personalities to the table — from pieces built to travel to the ocean’s deepest depths to sleek ones designed to add a dash of adventure to a tailored look. The Panerai Radiomir has been around longer than most of them, however, and even nearly 90 years after its debut, it still manages to look completely unlike any other. From its oversized case to its wire lugs to its unique “sandwich” dial, the Radiomir remains as much in a class of its own today as it was in 1935.
For all its distinctiveness, the Radiomir hasn’t been the focus of much attention in recent years, with sportier collections like the Luminor and Submersible, as well as the office-ready Due, dominating the collection. This year, however, with a trio of new models — including the brand’s first annual calendar — the Radiomir is ready to reclaim its place of
honour among the world’s coveted dive watches.
The story of the Radiomir is the story of Panerai as well, and its latest
editions reveal the luxury watchmaker’s skill at reinterpreting its history for modern tastes. Panerai was founded in 1860 in Florence by Giovanni Panerai, and by the early 20th century its storefront in Piazza San Giovanni (which is now the brand’s flagship boutique) was known for its high-quality clocks and pocket watches. With styles changing and war on the horizon, however, Giovanni Panerai’s grandson, Guido, accepted a commission to create precision instruments for the Italian Navy. He did not disappoint. In 1916, Panerai filed a patent for Radiomir, a substance that glowed bright green in the dark, an essential benefit for navy divers. Powered by a paste made from radioactive radium, this innovation would set Panerai on its course to becoming a spe- cialist in high-performance underwater instruments for the next century.
Borrowing its name from Panerai’s signature radioactive lume, the Radiomir was introduced in 1935 as a watch for military divers. Its large, 47 mm cushion-shaped case included a screw-on back and screw-down winding crown for maximum water resistance, wire loop strap attachments welded directly to the case, and a wide strap designed to fit over a diving suit. While the
Radiomir would continue to evolve over the 20th century — adding Panerai’s famous “sandwich” dial and eventually swapping the radium-based lume for a non-radioactive substitute — the Radiomirs of today look very much as the original did, and are still built with the same attention to quality and durability.
For 2023, Panerai continues the Radiomir’s evolution with three new editions that combine the model’s hallmark features with new case sizes and movements. Leading the charge is the PAM01432, which is the first Radiomir equipped with an annual calendar movement, and the first annual calendar in Panerai’s history. Featuring separate windows for day and date, plus a rotating disc indicating the month via an arrow at three o’clock, this Radiomir comes in a 45 mm case made from Goldtech, Panerai’s in-house gold-copper-platinum alloy, as well as a version in pure platinum. A third limited version, the Experience Edition, comes with a VIP trip to Rome, where a few lucky buyers can be immersed in the culture and history of the “Eternal City” with Panerai.
If the Annual Calendar is a testament to Panerai’s present status as a leading luxury watchmaker, the other new editions are a celebration of its past glories. The Radiomir California PAM01349 is inspired by the Ref. 3646, a coveted 1940s Panerai with a so-called “California” dial featuring both Roman and Arabic numerals. Previously available only in 47 mm case sizes, the new version measures a more approachable (but still beefy) 45 mm. The case itself, meanwhile, is crafted from Brunito eSteel, a new treat- ment for Panerai’s industry-leading recycled metal that’s hand-finished for a vintage-style burnished look.
Along similar lines, the new Radiomir Quaranta PAM01026 is a tribute to the original 1935 Radiomir with a few notable updates. Most significantly, the Quaranta has been slimmed down to 40 mm wide and just 10.15 mm thick, making it the slimmest piece in the Panerai range, and appealing to a wider range of wrists. While its essential design may look much the same as the 1935 original, the Quaranta is distinguished by another major difference: a case made from Goldtech. With its stunning gold case and more versatile size, this and the other new Radiomirs suggest a future for this former military dive watch that’s as rich as its past.
84 BFM / SS23 WATCH / THE RETURN OF RADIOMIR