Page 140 - Wayne Carini's Guide to Affordable Classics
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                overdrive fifth gear. Automatic transmissions are relatively   in a handsome wood veneer. Heater controls are on the center
 rare on most entry-level sports cars (if offered at all), but the Spider’s GM-sourced three-speed automatic available later in its lifecycle is equally modern, though it lacks the overdrive benefit of the manual.
The Spider’s handling and ride are also a step above its contemporaries, thanks to coil springs all around and an especially rigid body structure. Generous amounts of understeer make for predictable cornering, aided by light, un-boosted steering. Ride quality is also surprisingly good for what is ostensibly a sports car. The Maserati-derived rack & pinion steering implemented on the very last Spider Azzurra makes for a tangible handling improvement with noticeably sharper cornering.
What really sets the Spider apart from its contemporaries is its overall passenger accommodation. Though there is a bit of the traditional Italian long arms/short legs seating position, it’s more than adequate for most drivers. Compared to modern cars, it’s a nostalgic surprise to have a full set of handsome Veglia gauges across the instrument panel on most models, which is itself covered
console and fresh-air ventilation is adequate – if not generous – for a car of the 1960s, though air conditioning, which was always an add-on system, was never really adequate for warmer climates. Unlike many of its contemporaries, the Spider’s trunk is slightly modest due to the body contours, but offers a flat floor with a rubber covering mat.
By far the best feature of the interior is its clever top mechanization. No other contemporary sports car offers such a simple one-handed operation, complete with visibility-enhancing side windows that fold together with the top. Though certainly not necessary, a snug vinyl boot finishes off the top area.
 The Knowledge
 dPre-1972 and later year 1983-85 models are the
most desirable Spider vintages, but the middle years (1973-1980) were sold in higher volumes, hence higher availability. The 1980-1985 models are fuel-injected and offer improved reliability; many of these cars can also be found with air conditioning and automatic transmissions if so desired. It’s important to find the most original example you can – it’s likely to be worth more and may be more desirable in the long run.
dJob One – rust inspection! This is the major weakness of the 124 (though it was somewhat less severe in the 1980s) and requires a thorough evaluation. Areas that are most vulnerable are shock towers, rocker panels, rear wheel arches and floor. The front crossmember is also susceptible to corrosion and has a potential for cracking near the mounting bolts. Fortunately, all these parts are readily available.
dThe five-speed transmission is a real bonus, but it doesn’t respond well to abuse. Check for smooth syncro operation in second and fourth gears — they are prone
to wear from the driver resting his or her hand on the shift lever. Likewise, the rear axle. Make sure that it goes through the gears smoothly and that there isn’t excessive noise from the rear axle.
dInterior trim is delicate, particularly with extended sun exposure. Dashes often crack on cars left outside in sunny climates.
dBall joint failures can be catastrophic and lead to the collapse of the front suspension.
dThe cam belt is a great design but if neglected, can cause problems. Earlier models had interference engines which resulted in valve and piston damage if the belts fail. Make sure you know when the timing belt was last replaced. It’s a routine operation and should be done
at intervals of 30,000 miles or five years. All parts are available.
dOil pans are somewhat exposed to damage and should be checked for dents — severe damage will affect the oil pickup, leading to a rapid engine demise
dMetal fatigue in the firewall can cause issues with the throttle operation
dManage expectations on A/C-equipped cars. Like most European cars of this era, it was an “add on” system and could never match the efficiency of a fully integrated system.
dCooling system bleeding can be a challenge for a novice as the system needs to be “burped.”
dCheck the convertible top for wear or damage. Does it seal tightly? Is the rear window clear? A new top is readily available and costs $350 — $600 plus installation labor, depending on whether it’s vinyl or canvas. Installation isn’t difficult.
dAsk questions. Is there a consistent service history? Has it been driven on a regular basis? Extended storage will likely mean gummed-up carburetors, rust in the fuel tank, dodgy brakes and dried-out seals. If a seller is able to answer questions and has a complete history, it usually means that they have cared for and maintained for their vehicle and many times are the original owners.
    138Wayne CariniAffordable Classics












































































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