Page 56 - Wayne Carini's Guide to Affordable Classics

The Knowledge
dWith simple body-on-frame construction and almost every constituent part available at affordable prices, do- it-yourself restorations are common with the TR6. While not necessarily a bad thing, restored-at-home examples deserve additional scrutiny. As with most older sports cars, walk away from rusty examples unless you have good welding skills and would rather spend time in the garage than out on the road.
dCarefully examine the corners of the fenders, especially at the extreme front and rear of the vehicle for evidence of rust resulting from moisture trapped in the internal seams. Ensure that the scuttle seams are filler-free and there are no bubbles in the paint that indicate hidden corrosion. It
is particularly important to look at the metal adjacent to the seams on the rear deck forward of the trunk lid as rust can attack the metal underneath. Pay attention to both the inner and outer sills and ensure the forward and rear seams – located immediately under the door gaps – have not been filled over. The sills should sit flush with the front and rear fenders at these seams, while the door gaps should be uniform from top to bottom!
ABOVE: Be wary of uneven panel gaps, especially in the doors, where they can indicate a collapsing frame or poorly fitted body. TOP RIGHT: This otherwise attractive example has had the body seams skimmed with black paint applied to accentuate the meeting joints. This modification can complicate the removal of rusted or damaged body panels.
dRemove the footwell carpeting and check the joint between the floors and the firewall. Confirm that any floor pan repairs were properly executed and do the same from underneath the car. Lift up the seats and check the metal at the base of the B-pillar and then inspect it from the backside by looking into each wheel arch forward of the rear tires. The trailing edge of the trunk lid and spare tire well are known rust spots, check them carefully.
dThe Triumph six-cylinder engine is one of the most rugged and trouble-free units that Triumph ever made.
The engine’s main weakness is worn crankshaft thrust washers that can cause catastrophic engine failure should they drop into the oil sump. Before starting the engine, check for end float in the crankshaft from worn thrust washers by pushing back on the crankshaft pulley with the engine off. Any distance greater than .013 inches – slightly less than the thickness of a matchbook cover – indicates serious wear. Any amount much greater than that portends immediate failure or signifies that the thrust washers have already taken up residence in the sump. Walk away at this point or budget for setting things right in the lower end.
dOil pressure should exceed 60 psi at 2,500 rpm with the engine warm; and extremely low oil pressure at idle – 10 to 15 psi – indicates crankshaft and bearing problems. A compression check and leakdown test will provide insight into the engine’s internals and provide a good indication of an engine’s overall health. Compression should
range between 130 to 160 psi per cylinder – it is equally important to have consistent readings across the engine – with losses from leakage under ten percent.
dThe four-speed transmission is as rugged as the engine and will generally provide 100,000 miles or more before a rebuild is necessary. Listen for noise emanating from the gearbox that disappears when fourth gear is engaged; as that can signal wear to the layshaft bearings. Wear to the layshaft bearings can also be identified with the engine running but the car stationary. Any noises that vanish when the clutch pedal is depressed can likely be traced to this fault.
54Wayne CariniAffordable Classics