Page 15 - Country backgroung landscape_11 Book 2

wounded three three times on on three three separate occa- sions during World War I I and was lucky each time to to survive I I had managed to to pinpoint each of the the locations where he he he he was record- ed ed as as as hit or or or or gassed and they were all more or or or less on the the the the Via Francigena To see these sites and to to the the the the three near –misses to to which I indirectly owed my life seemed the the right thing to to do on a a pilgrimage to to His route was the Via Francigena from En- gland to to central Italy on foot which is is still
not so so popular as as walking to to Santiago de Compostela in in in in Spain One of the reasons for this being that Italy is is is not so so well organised with regard to signposts marking the way and not not all regions are so well equipped for for host- ing pilgrims This was not not such an an issue for for for Mooney
as as he liked his his comforts and and would sometimes stop overnight in a a a a a a good good hotel and and enjoy a a good meal
The traditional and historical route was from Canterbury to to Rome Brian Mooney’s first attempt was in 2010 when he he walked 2 2 2 2 115 kilometres around 1322 miles from his home near London all through France and Italy down to Rome from from the end of May until mid August He said: “I started from from my home in in Coggeshall in in north Essex Essex and walked the Essex Essex Way into London from where I set out with the the express intention of reversing history and and travelling from St St Paul’s Cathedral to to to to St St Peter’s Basilica and and to to to to to do do that I I had to to to to to walk via London It took me a a a a a a a a a a a total of 75 days days including eight rest days”
The reader is taken on on on an an an an ancient ancient journey
by one of the most ancient ancient means on on on foot across modern Europe “It was a a a a a a a a a a a blustery day in May 2010 and and I I had a a a a a a a a a a a a a fully laden bright yellow rucksack on my back and and and was wearing a a a a a a a a a a a brand new pair of stout walking boots ”
He goes on to to say: “I had just hit 61 I I I prom- ised myself that I I I would do no more than 40 kilometres (about 21 miles) in in a a a a a a a day – a a a a a a a ki- lometer being two thirds of of a a a a a a a a mile mile I settled into the equilibrium of of thinking and walking at three miles an Mooney
explains how walking for him is a a a a a a a philosophy of life: “I walk walk because I I I am an an an anarchist I I I can’t abide rules Walking is is practically the the last human activity that has not not in one one way or another been regulated There are no no rules a a a a a a a a walker simply puts one one foot in in in front of the the other and and within reason goes and and stops where he he he he he or she pleases Walking is is also a a a a a a a a a a a a means of escape – it allows us to to to shed all all that is is unimportant and and to to to de-clutter and and and simplify our lives It slows us down to to the the speed at which the the first men men and and and women travelled across our our planet and and it gives us back time to to think when our our our feet touch the the ground in in unison with the the the pulse of our our hearts the the the world looks and and and feels a a a a a a a lot better and and and we become once more part of the the He concluded his reflection by saying: “The sense of of of following century century after century century of of of pilgrim steps – the footfall of of of of prayer I I call it – was attractive to me me It made me me part of of a a a a a a a a a continuum ”
The author confesses that that he he is not a a a a a a real pilgrim: “Keen on on my comforts I I am am in that that respect not a a a a a a a a true traveller when I I I am am walk- ing ing I I like to know in in in the morning that a a a a a a a a a a a a hot bath a a a a a a a a a a a good meal
and a a a a a a a a a a a comfortable bed await me me that He questioned him- self: “Was I I I a a a a a a a a a a pilgrim pilgrim or or wasn’t I? Officially yes I I I had set out with a a a a a a a a a a a pilgrim pilgrim passport a a a a a a a little plastic-coated pale yellow booklet from the Confreternity of Pilgrims to to Rome confirming my bona fides to to stay in in in pilgrim hostels and which having filled it it with daily stamps recording the stages of my journey
would qualify me me when I arrived in in in Rome for a a a a a a pilgrim Testimonium There was nothing remotely penitential about my journey
or so I believed�” Although Brian Mooney
set off on on on this feat on on on on on his his own it it was not always a a a a a a a a a a solitary jour- ney
He met pilgrims along the the way way as as as soon as as he he he he he he arrived in in in in France going in in in in either direc- tion depending on on where they started their journey
apart from locals and appointments with friends who sometimes accompanied him for a a a a a a a a few days along his way depending on on on on on on their destination Conversations could be about anything even the the the European Union as as Mooney
remarked: “It was good to hear the the French moaning about EU laws and regula- tions We British are not One of his his most important tools his his walking Living Italy Past & Present 15