Page 21 - Ragtrader Magazine April 2020

WWW.RAGTRADER.COM.AU MANUFACTURING APRIL 2020 21 ONSHORE
The flip side
Grace Loves Lace is not feeling the pinch from COVID-19, Imogen Bailey reports.
AUSTRALIAN BRIDAL LABEL Grace Loves Lace (GLL) is experiencing the re- verse side of the coronavirus.
Unlike many fashion businesses who are losing sales due to delays, drops in tourist spending and logistical difficulties, GLL has experienced a significant increase in enquiries from Australian brides-to-be who have been informed that their wed- ding dress will be delayed from China.
With over 80% of the world’s wedding dresses made in China, GLL founder Megan Ziems made a conscious decision when start- ing the business to design and handmake the brand’s wedding dresses in Australia, a deci- sion which is paying dividends now.
What has been your response to COVID-19?
We’ve seen an overwhelming number of bride-to-be’s on social media, online chat and in showrooms voicing their concern and shock.
The team has received a variety of com- ments on the issue. Some brides have had appointments with other brands cancelled (due to production ceasing), others have had their orders delayed and we’ve even had concerns about dresses being sprayed upon entry to the country.
I think the biggest worry for brides is the uncertainty of just how long this will go on for? How many future brides – who have already ordered a dress – will be nega- tively impacted by this?
Unfortunately, the lack of transparency from brands about where their wedding dresses are made means a lot of women don’t know they are choosing this.
80% of the world’s wedding dresses are made in Chinese factories. That’s a heck of a lot of women in 2020-2021 and beyond that will be affected.
I think it’s an important time to raise the issue of consumers doing their due dil- igence and ensuring their purchases align with their values.
Who do you want making your dress? What is their age, skill level and wage rate? What are their workplace conditions like? What are the carbon emissions of offshore
manufacturing? What’s the long-term impact of mass production?
Each bride has this decision to make, as we did. We have made the decision to remain not only Australian made, but made in-house, and we have grown our fully integrated manufacturing team as the company has grown.
Where do you source your materials from?
We source fabrics from everywhere. It really depends on the speciality of the sup- plier. We’ve sourced from Europe, the US, Australia and Asia before.
Of the fabrics we source from Asia we have had some silk being held up but for- tunately we have silk supply in the US and England as well, so this won’t slow us down.
What about the uptake of made-to-order?
We don’t mass produce. Our made-to- order service is only possible – even with rush order time frames – because we have a fully integrated design, development and manufacturing team all in house in our Australian studio.
We started to see concern from brides a few weeks back. It’s only grown stronger now that so many women are beginning to realise that their wedding gowns (from other designers) are made in offshore factories.
Luckily, we have introduced our prior- ity order service at a convenient time for them. If a bride has been impacted by these export restrictions and is in need of a dress fast, this service means that they can turn to Grace Loves Lace and get a gown in time for their wedding day.
What's your advice for making onshore?
Work out what your values are. Honour local trade and support local jobs. Find a way to make it happen; there is Government assistance to help you. We do have the ability to do it here but it requires more effort and a long-term plan.
You also need to weigh up the positives and negatives. For us it’s simple: making our dresses off-shore just isn’t an option.
What are the advantages of doing it?
Long term you are going to be a part of re- building the rag trade industry here. Short term you’re employing people that con- sider themselves unemployable because their skills and experience has been left behind over the desire for extra margins offshore.
Having integrated manufacturing means you have full control of the pro- cess – you can honestly tell your customers how your dress is made.
The challenges of course are big! There’s been generations lost. My dream would be to open a GLL school where we can train up the next generation of pattern makers, cutters and seamstresses. ■