Page 15 - Chiron Autumn/Winter 2023

first landed in either gliders, or by parachute. It was amazing to really see the size of the site, the condition of the ground and get a feel for the scale of the battle and distances from landing to their eventual objective. The bridge at Arnhem which was the primary objective lay some eight miles to the south-east. We then continued to explore the various sites of importance such as the ‘blocking line’ where the German forces halted our advance, and the disastrous landing site for the Polish forces. There was a culvert tunnel there which was used to sneak past the German forces which despite our difficulties doing so on bicycles, they managed to drive jeeps through.
On the second day we explored the more central locations such as the Elizabeth Hospital where troops from both sides were treated and which changed hands frequently throughout the Operation, the Municipal Museum in central Arnhem, which saw some of the heaviest and most destructive fighting, and the central church which was partially destroyed in the fighting. We were privileged to be allowed to enter the hospital which is now residential and met a lady who has lived there since the war and whose father was treated for his wounds there during the battle.
We also made it to the bridge, unlike most of the Allied Forces, and were able to stand close to the very spot where Lt Col Frost and his soldiers held the north end of the
bridge for five days with ultimately no hope of rescue. We then pushed out to the south side of the river where we saw the eventual landing site for the polish forces and the site where the tragically few surviving allied troops were carried across the river and rescued. Many of them were so desperate to cross they jumped in and swam across under enemy fire and at night. We then enjoyed a ferry ride across to the north bank where we gained some elevation and were able to
see a large chunk of the battle areas surrounding Oosterbeek and the Bridge in the far distance. There
is a nice memorial there also and
a pleasant park which brings into sharp relief the contrast between how it looks now and would have looked during the war.
Day three of our tour began in
the village of Oosterbeek at the Church there. Over the course
of the battle our forces had been forced to retreat constantly until
the perimeter for our forces was no further than the edges of the village. Here a Major Lonsdale gathered the remaining troops from all regiments and successfully organised them
to defend and hold this small perimeter until reinforcements were able to come across the river from the south and relieve them.
We then travelled to the Tafelberg Hotel which was the headquarters of the occupying forces prior to Op Market Garden and our own during
the campaign. It also served as a medical dressing station during much of the fighting. We then travelled to the Hartenstein Museum which, for any travellers among
you, is an excellent museum with plenty of memorabilia and some fascinating interactive exhibits. We then had lunch at the Schoonoord Restaurant which was yet another medical station throughout the fighting and today displays images related to the battle including an image of Remount Barracks itself, taken when the 11th Parachute Battalion were stationed here.
Our final stop on this last day of the tour, was the War Cemetery where there is a monument to the fallen and the vast array of graves of both known and unknown soldiers, aviators, and officers. Here Lt Col Robinson led a short memorial service in honour of those brave souls. The Last Post was sounded before a two-minute silence and reveille which provided a very poignant close to the entire tour.
We travelled home on the ferry with plenty to consider, having learned a great deal about the Operations carried out in Arnhem and the surrounding area, and having felt a deeper connection to the brave officers and soldiers who fought in that terrible war. Moments in history such as this should never be forgotten, so it is important that we continue taking time to explore them and appreciate their impact on the modern world.
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