Page 35 - MENU Magazine - March/April 2018

John Szabo MS is the author of Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power.
WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES THAT WINEMAKERS IN VOLCANIC WINE REGIONS FACE?
I nd it extraordinary that winegrowers would toil away on the sides of an active volcano like Etna or the Campi Flegrei in Italy, or various parts of Southern Chile or the Azores, where
a life’s work could be (and has occasionally been) obliterated in a scorching ash. Wine- growers have enough to worry about under normal circumstances. That is too much! Another challenge, which is quickly turning into an advantage, is that for many reasons, volcanic regions have preserved a wealth of ancient, indigenous varieties, mostly unknown in the mainstream wine world. It’s tough to sell totally unknown grapes, even if that’s precisely what so many sommeliers are looking for today.
HOW LONG DID IT TAKE TO PUT THE BOOK TOGETHER?
From concept to publishing was about six years, but over half of that was trying to nd
a publisher willing to put out a book on what seems to be such a niche subject! Though in reality, the book covers a far greater swath of the wine world than the more commonplace approach of most books that focus on a single region or country or grape variety—mine’s re- ally not niche at all. But the hard research and writing, editing and mapmaking took about two and a half years in all.
WHY DO YOU THINK CANADIANS SHOULD BE PAYING MORE ATTENTION TO VOLCANIC WINES?
As I mention in the book, “volcanic wines rep- resent a worthy collection of highly distinctive,
individual expressions—stubborn holdouts in a world of merging avours.”
YOUR BIO READS THAT VOLCANOES ARE YOUR CURRENT FATAL ATTRACTION—WHAT DO YOU THINK MIGHT BE NEXT?
Well, since you asked. I am working up another book proposal. Su ce it to say that with this new project I hope, by shining a spotlight,
to help protect worthy regions and grapes in danger of disappearing due to a combination of the di culty of farming and the lack of con- sumer awareness (and thus low prices). It’s my way of championing diversity and preserving vital world viticultural patrimony. m
This article was originally published on Foodism Toronto’s website: foodism.to.
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