Page 24 - KCRPCA NovDec 2020

#7 toe on that corner. This car will be set up with 0 total toe in the rear, so this is good and no adjustments are needed. If we were shooting for something like 1/8” total toe out, then we would want the reading on this corner of the car to be half of that; 1/16” difference between the leading and trailing edge. Then setting the opposite side of the car to the same settings of 1/16” of toe out, we would end up with 1/8” to- tal toe out. After adjusting the pas- senger toe which was slightly out, PIC I go back and recheck everything in the rear to make sure the settings are all where I want them. Once the rear of the car is set, it is off to the front. The steps are es- sentially the same, only adding caster adjustment as well. Caster is fairly easy; it measures change in camber depending on rotation of the wheel. So, you check the camber with the wheels straight, then camber with the wheels turned left 20 degrees, and right 20 degrees; this can be done with a simple protractor. A few math equations will give you your caster setting (these can be found in the smart camber tool instruction guide). <Pic 9 and 10> #8 24 camber we can achieve. Normally with a Hoosier race tire, I want to see 3-3.5 degrees of negative cam- ber, with a half degree less in the rear. Unfortunately, we max out at around -2.6, so without major sus- pension modifications, it is what it is. On to toe. For the front, it is crit- ical that you center your steering wheel and pin it, either with a tool to hold it straight, or if you have Camber is set and fairly equal on this car left to right side. I had installed a new steering rack and some strut bolts, and my initial set- tings for camber were fairly spot on somehow. This car has had a few bumps and bruises, so we are somewhat limited on how much negative PIC a helper (kids, wife, etc). As you make your toe adjustments, the Der Sportwagen